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GHANA Picathartes, Pel's... and Plover 1 March – 16 March 2009 Leaders:
Ken Behrens, with Robert Ntakor and William Apraku |
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Introduction:
Although Ghana is a relatively unknown destination for birding tours, it is quickly becoming the premier destination in West Africa. In contrast to most of the other countries in the region, it is safe, and the people are remarkably friendly. Its infrastructure is also exceptional, with good hotels, restaurants, and roads through most of the country. In terms of birding, Ghana a huge amount to offer. The southern rainforests are a great place to find Upper Guinea endemics (restricted to the rainforest west of Togo) as well as a full range of West African forest species. Meanwhile, the northern portion of Ghana lies in the Guinea savanna belt, with a completely different set of birds. The most exceptional thing about Ghana from a birding perspective is the list of 'marquee species' that it holds. Foremost among these is Yellow-headed Picathartes, one of the most spectacular and sought-after birds in the world. Ghana is the best place to see this species, and sightings here are virtually guaranteed, whereas stories of missing Cameroon's elusive Gray-necked Picathartes, abound. Put simply, Ghana is the best place in the world to see a Picathartes. In addition, African Finfoot is virtually guaranteed, and Pel's Fishing-Owl is found on most trips. Egyptian Plover stands to become a regular feature on this tour, after the confirmation of its presence at a new site during scouting prior to this tour. Other spectacular birds likely in Ghana include Congo Serpent-Eagle, Long-tailed Hawk, White-spotted Flufftail, Guinea, Yellow-billed, and Violet Turacos, Fraser's Eagle-Owl, Standard-winged Nightjar, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, Blue-headed, Red-throated, and Rosy Bee-eaters, White-crested, Black Dwarf, Red-billed Dwarf, Brown-cheeked, Black-casqued, and Yellow-casqued Hornbills, Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Rufous-sided Broadbill, Long-tailed Glossy-Starling, and Preuss's Weaver.
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| Chocolate-backed
Kingfisher is a beautiful bird of southern Ghana's rainforests... |
...while African Blue Flycatcher is found in its northern Guinea savanna. |
This trip was highly successful, netting all of the 'marquee species' mentioned above, along with a host of others. A total of 429 species were seen, with a further 12 heard, making this the most successful trip ever run to Ghana by any tour company. However, the success of this trip was not only in the numbers. Despite spending half of the trip in challenging rainforest habitat, there were very few birds missed by any participant, and the number of heard-only birds was remarkably low. Furthermore, there were very few species not seen well by everyone on the trip. Time after time, the birds lingered just long enough for everyone to have a look in the scope, or were located a second time so that those who missed a first sighting had a second change. Ghana may be the best place in the world to see rainforest birds and to see them well; an experience here may startle those who have been to the Amazon or elsewhere in West Africa, where dozens of species may be heard-only, or perhaps glimpsed fleetingly.
The trip began in the dry savanna east of Accra, then took in a lagoon teeming with waterbirds, before plunging into the humid rainforests west of Accra. After several superb days of birding Kakum National Park and an intimate encounter with the indescribable Yellow-necked Picithartes, we headed north to drier climes. A week in Mole National Park and the Upper East region brought us a bounty of different species. Three more days in additional rainforest sites provided sightings of several species we had missed earlier. Returning to Accra, we concluded a gloriously successful trip.
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| The big, ginger Pel's Fishing-Owl was voted '#2' bird of the trip. | Egyptian Plover - perhaps at its most spectacular in flight. |
Top ten trip species, as voted by all participants:
1. Yellow-headed Picathartes
2. Pel's Fishing-Owl
3. Egyptian Plover
4. Narina Trogon
5. Violet Turaco
6. White-spotted Flufftail
7. Red-throated Bee-eater
8. Rufous-sided Broadbill
9. Standard-winged Nightjar
10. Yellow-casqued Hornbill
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| Rufous-sided
Broadbill has an unusual and spectacular display, where it flies in a tight circle while calling. |
Olive-bellied
Sunbird was just one of a vast array of beautiful sunbird species encountered on this trip. |
Day-by-day account:
March 1, 2009
Although the start of the tour was planned for the evening of March 1, all of the participants had arrived by the evening of February 28, so we began the tour a day early to maximize birding time. An early departure from Accra meant that the sun was rising over the Shai Hills as we arrived. Although not high by the standards of a mountainous place, these hills dominate the horizon west of Accra, and the dry savanna and woodland that surround them hold a range of interesting bird species. This reserve lies just inside the Dahomey Gap, the band of dry savanna that isolates the Upper Guinea forests from the rest of Africa's humid lowland forest.
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| Stone Partridge is fairly common in Shai Hills. | Splendid
Sunbird was one many beautiful species that we observed on the first morning of the tour. |
White-crowned (Mocking) Cliff-Chat, one of our prime targets, was quickly located on a cliff face looming overhead. Shortly thereafter, we scoped a tree full of the beautiful Violet Turaco - a critical sighting, as a photo of this species graced the cover of our trip checklist! The array of striking and spectacular bird species that we encountered was staggering: Senegal Parrot, Swallow-tailed, White-throated, and Rosy Bee-eaters, Green Woodhoopoe, Double-toothed Barbet, Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Splendid Sunbird, Common Gonolek, and Violet-backed Starling. Crippling views of a male Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike only a few meters away capped a tremendous morning. On the way back to Accra, we added one more special bird - the odd, long-tailed Yellow-billed Shrike, on the fence of Tema Harbor's coco storage facility!
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| The tranquil Ghanain coastline. | White-fronted Plover. |
After a mid-day rest, we again assembled for a trip to Sakumono Lagoon, which is one of the best places in Ghana to see waterbirds despite its proximity to a vast human population. As usual, the lagoon was carpeted with Palearctic shorebirds, while terns danced over the ocean. Sakumono highlights included Western Reef-Heron, a lone Pied Avocet, the spectacularly elegant Collared Pratincole, lanky Black-tailed Godwit, and both Common and Spotted Redshanks. Even the marsh sedges held birds including Yellow-throated Longclaw. As the sun set over the Gulf of Guinea, we enjoyed our first dinner together, having thoroughly enjoyed our 'bonus day', and ready for what the rest of the trip would bring.
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| Collared Pratincole is one of the most elegant birds in the world. | Black-winged Stilts abound in the Sakumono Lagoon. |
March 2, 2009
Along the coast of Ghana lies a narrow strip of grassland and savanna that holds some interesting birds. We accessed this biome at the Winneba Plain. The morning's highlight for many was a male Black-bellied Bustard that flushed as our bus drove into the plain, the circled and crossed the road at close range, showing off its spectacular black-and-white wing pattern. A couple members of the party who were searching for a suitable 'bathroom bush' stumbled onto an excellent flock of birds that kept us occupied for almost an hour! The skies over the plain were enlivened by the wing drumming of Flappet Larks. One can only speculate why Flappet Lark and a few cogeners diverged from the rest of the larks, which are accomplished songsters, and decided instead to broadcast their territories by rapidly snapping their wings together! As the sun warmed the air, we visited a local restaurant where a delicious breakfast buffet was waiting for us. A Shikra perched atop a nearby tree and watched us warily as we dined.
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| A juvenile Shikra. | Orange-cheeked Waxbill. |
Having thoroughly enjoyed some waterbirding the day before, and finding ourselves with extra time, we decided to bird the Winneba Lagoon. Maneuvering our bus along the narrow streets of a coastal village, we found ourselves in an idyllic spot between the lagoon and the sea, with towering palm trees providing shade. While some members of the group scoured the lagoon for new shorebirds and terns (of which there were several), others were more entertained by the antics of the local children. A Malachite Kingfisher dashed in, shortly followed by an equally colorful bird, the Broad-billed Roller. As we sat in the shade sipping the milk of coconuts shared by the local people, we soaked in the atmosphere of this beautiful village. Surrounded by simple houses made from palms, there was little to suggest the existence of the 'modern world'. One can't help but wonder whether concrete, rebar, and corrugated tin are really improvements after seeing a place like this.
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| White-throated Bee-eater is common all along Ghana's coast. | The highly local Preuss's Swallow. |
A short drive along the coast brought us to Cape Coast, then north to our hotel for the next four nights. Our target for the afternoon was African Finfoot, a highly elusive bird that many travelling birders have missed on multiple trips to Africa. Ghana is surely one of the best places on the continent to see this species, and Brimsu Reservoir is Ghana's premier site. As soon as we reached a viewpoint, we spotted a Finfoot calmly paddling across the middle of the reservoir! We soon spotted a second Finfoot, and enjoyed long looks of this normally furtive bird.
Dusk found us at a roosting site for the local Preuss's Swallow, which made an appearance after a brief wait. An evening rain shower held the promise of good birding in the rainforest of Kakum National Park, as a bit of precipitation during the night is always good for the next day's birding.
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| Shorebirds on the Winneba Lagoon | Bar-tailed Godwit in flight |
March 3, 2009
Morning dawned with the prospect of a bounty of rain forest birds. Our birding site for the whole day was the canopy walkway of Kakum National Park, in the heart of the great Upper Guinea forest. Kakum's walkway is unique in Africa, and offers unparalleled chances to see forest canopy species at eye level (or below!). We were able to enjoy both sunrise and sunset from the heights of the walkway, and spotted an incredible list of species. One undoubted highlight was a Congo Serpent-Eagle that flew by at close range with a snake (or serpent...) in its talons. Blue-throated Rollers sat in the same tree on which our platform was anchored, and quickly chased away the Red-fronted Parrots that tried to supplant them. A small colony of Yellow-mantled Weavers is suspended close to one of the towers, and we enjoyed extensive looks at this richly-colored species. Sunbirds were in profusion, and included Scarlet-tufted, Little Green, Green, Olive-bellied, Tiny, and Johanna's. Scarce species we sighted included Wilcock's Honeyguide, Square-tailed Saw-wing, and Pale-fronted Negrofinch. At dusk, a large flock of Black-casqued Hornbills flew in - a spectacular sight in itself that was made even more remarkable by the presence of a Yellow-casqued Hornbill with the Black-casqued. What could be better than a flock of two species of massive hornbill perhed atop towering rain forest trees of up to almost 200 feet tall! What a wonder that such primeval giants persist in the age of the tractor and the chain saw.
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| The well-named Large-billed Puffback. | Ussher's Flycatcher is an Upper Guinea endemic. |
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| Chestnut-winged
Starlings often creep about the branches of the trees that support Kakum's canopy walkway. |
Fanti Sawwing is extremely long-tailed. |
Other highlights of our first day in the rain forest included Palm-nut Vulture, Blue-headed Wood-Dove, African Pygmy Kingfisher, White-crested Hornbill, Bristle-nosed and Naked-faced Barbets, Speckled and Yellow-throated Tinkerbirds, Yellow-spotted and Hairy-breasted Barbets, Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Yellow-browed Camaroptera, Green and Lemon-bellied Crombec, Gray Longbill, Ussher's Flycatcher, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Black-headed Paradise-Flycatcher, Large-billed Puffback, Chestnut-winged Starling, Red-headed Malimbe, and Gray-headed Negrofinch. The birding on the trails below the canopy walkway was more challenging but equally rewarding. We sighted a wide range of greenbuls, and enjoyed a Rufous-sided Broadbill doing its 'fly-in-a-tight-circle-while-calling' display flight.
Our birding didn't stop at sunset, as Kakum holds some desirable nocturnal species. A Brown Nightjar was spot-lighted, as was a Fraser's Eagle-Owl, that flew in and sat a few feet over our heads - a great day to end a spectacular day!
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| Chestnut-capped Flycatcher: a dapper monarch. | The richly-colored Golden-mantled Weaver. |
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| Kakum NP's canopy walkway. | Michael in front of a massive Kakum tree. |
March 4, 2009
A morning of birding at a remote section of Kakum was highly productive. As we ate our packed breakfast and waited for some fog to clear, we caught up with Red-rumped and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbirds and Yellow-spotted Nicator. With the sun burning through the fog, we quickly located Gray Parrot, Buff-throated and Superb Sunbirds, Gray's Malimbe, and White-breasted Negrofinch. A small group of Black Bee-eaters flew in and were watched through the scope for 15 minutes. This species may be the most beautiful Bee-eater, though the competition is fierce!
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| The gorgeous Blue Cuckoo-shrike is fairly common in Kakum NP. | Tit-hylia is Africa's smallest bird! |
A short walk brought us to a clearing in the forest that was buzzing with birds and had a comfortably shaded bench-like downed tree. This is where we spent almost the whole morning, as new bird after new bird appeared. Another Congo Serpent-Eagle flew by at close range, then attacked two Pied Hornbills, one of which became its next meal! A pair of Dwarf Kingfishers appeared, offered great looks, then vaporized. One tree in particular kept attracting great birds, including Eurasian Wryneck, Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Violet-backed Hyliota, Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher, Tit-hylia, Bioko Batis, and Chestnut-breasted Negrofinch! A pair of Buff-spotted Woodpeckers flew into the shade tree right over our heads, while Rosy Bee-eaters circled through the clearing.
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| A female Chestnut Wattle-eye. | Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird was a breakfast bird. |
Along the road on the drive out, a Bat Hawk circled, and this scarce bird was seen by all. A late morning stop at a large river held the promise of two special species - Rock Pratincole and White-tailed Blue Swallow. Both were quickly located and seen well, along with bonuses Sabine's Spinetail and Cassin's Flycatcher.
The evening was spent on trails in Kakum National Park. The birding here was challenging, though persistence gave us Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, which was the 'bird of the day' for most of the group. Another highlight was the secretive Forest Francolin.
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| A pair of beautiful Blue-throated Rollers. | Rosy
Bee-eaters seem perpetually airborne on the non-breeding grounds in Ghana. |
March 5, 2009
This day was reserved for catching up with species we hadn't yet encountered in Kakum, and we spent the morning and afternoon hiking trails. Two beautiful canopy species were seen after a bit of maneuvering - Yellow-billed Barbet and Chestnut-bellied Helmetshrike. Extended scope views of a White-crested Hornbill at eye level were a highlight for many. Other special species included Levaillant's Cuckoo, Forest Wood-hoopoe, Fanti Saw-wing, Finsch's Flycatcher-Thrush, Grey-throated Tit-Flycatcher, and Shining Drongo. Telescope views of a Forest Robin at close range were a satisfying end to a long struggle to see this gem of a bird. We even saw another Yellow-casqued Hornbill!
The middle of the day was a chance for some to photograph the Village, Vieillot's, and Orange Weavers around Hans Cottage. Others opted for a visit to the Cape Coast Castle, one of the most active slave dungeons during the hundreds of grisly years during which Western Africa was torn apart by the slave trading industry. The peace and friendliness of modern Ghana stands in contrast to its often brutal past.
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| An Orange Weaver doing some weaving. | A Village Weaver about to do some weaving. |
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| The Cape Coast Castle. | Cheerful Ghanain street vendors. |
March 6, 2009
Although this day dawned with the prospect of the Picathartes, we enjoyed a full morning of forest birding in another section of Kakum before pursuing the mythical beast. Soon after stepping off the bus, we spotted a Black-throated Coucal, which sat in a bush and offered fantastic views. Soon thereafter, we had a tremendous encounter with a White-spotted Flufftail at no farther than 10 feet, at a spot that is uniquely suited to viewing this shy bird. A Congo Serpent-Eagle called and flew by, making this the third day in which we saw this rare species! Other raptors included a perched Long-tailed Hawk and a Black Goshawk. Although it wasn't easily seen, we eventually all had great views of the frenetic African Piculet. A tree full of the Upper Guinea endemic Copper-tailed Glossy-Starling was a fine sight, as was a flock of Narrow-tailed Starlings that flew by. Just as some were thinking of lunch and the air-conditioned bus, a Black Dwarf Hornbill dashed in. Other highlights of a remarkably productive morning included African Emerald Cuckoo, Black and Cassin's Spinetails, White-headed Woodhoopoe, Cassin's Honeyguide, Whistling Cisticola, African Forest-Flycatcher, Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher, Superb Sunbird, another flock of Chestnut-bellied Helmetshrikes, and Red-vented Malimbe.
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| Velvet-mantled
Drongo is the most common drongo in the rainforest. |
Seeing a Long-tailed Hawk perched was a special experience. |
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| This
hairstreak from Kakum National Park is one of the most remarkable butterflies I have ever seen. |
Yellowbill is a common and vocal in Ghana's forests. |
Yellow-headed Picathartes (or White-necked Rockfowl, if you prefer) is one of the prime reasons why most birders visit Ghana. Few creatures have captured birders' fascination like Africa's two species of Picathartes, which comprise their own family. Since the recent rediscovery of Yellow-headed Picathartes in Ghana, the country has emerged as the most dependable and comfortable place in the world to see a member of this legendary duo.
Our Picathartes quest started in a small village where we were warmly greeted by friendly local children. After picking up our local guides, we began the one-hour hike to the nest site. This hike is very easy except for the last 100 yards, which is a steep ascent. Thankfully, we arrived early, and there was plenty of time for the whole group to climb the hill at their own pace. We viewed and photographed the Picathartes nests - mud cups plastered to a sheer rock face, then settled onto a rock with a good view of the area. 45 minutes later, a Picathartes appeared in typically silent manner, then sat in the tree in front of us preening for 15 minutes! It is difficult to describe what is like to see this bird. Few creatures whisper so poignantly of past ages of the earth. There is something in the secretive nature of the bird and its uniquely beautiful face that closely matches the deep rain forests from which it arose. How long have Picathartes been quietly carrying out their lives on this same piece of rock - thousands of years, tens of thousands, or perhaps much longer?
Satisfied with our tremendous experience with this incredible creature, we began the hike down so as to arrive well before dark and to beat a rain storm that was bearing down on the area. A short drive brought us to our hotel in Kumasi, where we found Ghanain independence day festivities in full swing. Thankfully, rooms on the back side of the hotel ensured a peaceful night's sleep!
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| The remarkable Yellow-headed Picathartes (or White-necked Rockfowl). | Another look at the Picathartes. |
March 7, 2009
This was mainly a travel day to the north and Mole National Park. As the kilometers rolled by, we watched the humid forests and plantations of Kumasi transition into much more arid broadleaf Guinea savanna. We were driving into the heart of the savanna belt that we had tasted during our first day's visit to Shai Hills. With the change of landscape came new roadside birds like Grasshopper Buzzard, Wahlberg's Eagle, Red-throated Bee-eater, and Abyssinian and Rufous-crowned Rollers.
Arriving at Mole National Park's lodge in mid-afternoon, we enjoyed a rest, then gathered to watch the sunset. The Mole Lodge is perched on a bluff with a great view of a wetland below. We saw several new species here including Wooly-necked Stork, Spur-winged Goose, Senegal Thick-knee, Wattled Lapwing, and Long-tailed Glossy-Starling. A nest of Pygmy Sunbird dangled a few feet over our heads, and was attended by a female who dashed back and forth feeding the young while a glittering male supervised from the treetop.
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| The trim and attractive Grasshopper Buzzard. | Male Pygmy Sunbird: supervisor of nesting operations |
March 8, 2009
We began what was to be our routine for the next three days in Mole: early morning coffee and biscuits on the terrace overlooking the waterhole, a morning hike, brunch, a long mid-day rest, then an afternoon drive and hike. On the morning walk, the profusion of new birds was almost bewildering. One after another, we found Greater Painted-Snipe, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Giant Kingfisher, Red-billed Hornbill, Gray Woodpecker, Northern Crombec, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Gray Tit-Flycatcher, European Pied-Flycatcher, Senegal Batis, Scarlet-chested and Beautiful Sunbirds, Purple Glossy-Starling, Red-winged Pytilia, and Yellow-fronted Canary. Our main target for the morning, and perhaps #2 target for the trip (after Picathartes) was Pel's Fishing-Owl. Although it is always present, it can be difficult to see, and I was keen to locate it on our first morning. At mid-morning, we were delighted to encounter the big, ginger owl, perched in a tree over our heads. This incredible bird was thoroughly enjoyed, observed, and photographed.
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| Some of Mole's African elephants are impressively huge. | White-throated
Francolin, with the legs of one of our scopes in the background! |
As the dry savanna heated up in the late morning, we continued to spot new birds, including a juvenile Martial Eagle that dwarfed the African Harrier-Hawks soaring with it. A dapper Lizard Buzzard was seen well and enjoyed by all. Although the Pel's was unanimously voted 'bird of the day', we also enjoyed an owl at the other end of the size spectrum, the Lilliputian Pearl-spotted Owlet. As we made our way back to the lodge, we came upon a group of elephants bathing in a marsh. The elephants in Mole are among the largest I have seen in Africa, but also the most approachable, and experiencing these massive animals on foot was a memorable experience.
A well-earned brunch was enjoyed on the terrace, with raptors, swifts, and swallows zooming overhead. Afterwards, most of the group retired to their refreshingly air-conditioned rooms for a mid-day siesta.
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| White-backed Vulture is a classic species of the African Savanna... | ...as is Red-billed Hornbill. |
An afternoon walk in a different area brought us views of several new birds, such as Square-tailed Drongo, Lavender Waxbill, and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. As the sun set, we were in place at the Mole airstrip - a prime place for nocturnal species. Stone Partridges called from all around, and one was eventually seen well. At some exact moment rooted deep in the evolutionary biology of the species, five Standard-winged Nightjars began displaying on the tarmac. A scan down the airstrip revealed what appeared to be 15 birds, but was actually 5 nightjars with standards bounding irregularly behind them! This is one of the strangest and most spectacular birds in the world, and we were lucky to observe and photograph them from as close as 10 yards. The last bird of the day was a White-throated Francolin that dashed out of the gloom and into the beam of a spotlight.
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| The wings of the Standard-winged Nightjar are anything but standard. |
March 9, 2009
Birding an area at the edge of the national park gave us a range of wonderful birds. Abdim's Storks and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters floated overhead, as did a striking adult Bateleur. Bruce's Green-Pigeons perched for long looks, while Red-headed Lovebird was more elusive, but was eventually seen well by most. An undoubted highlight of the morning was an African Blue-Flycatcher that greeted the morning sun with its tail characteristically fanned, snatching insects from branches only a yard over our heads. The elusive White-crowned Robin-Chat was finally scoped and thoroughly enjoyed by all. A pair of Green-headed Sunbirds showed well; the female of this species is surely one of the world's most colorful female sunbirds! Blackcap Babbler had been vocal but elusive at Shai Hills on the first day, so we were delighted to have a whole group fly in and babble at us.
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| A juvenile Blackcap Babbler. | Blue-breasted Kingfisher. |
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| 'Moho'
is a much more interesting name for this bird than Oriole Warbler. |
A bathing flock of Bar-breasted Firefinches. |
Our terrace brunch was enhanced by two handsome raptors that flew by: African Hawk-Eagle and Eurasian Hobby. An afternoon excursion was made to a waterhole where dozens of Red-throated Bee-eaters nest; a tree full of these stunning birds is an exhilarating sight. Other striking species we located included Blue-bellied Roller, Black Scimitar-bill, and Red-headed Weaver. As dusk fell, we sat in an open area and enjoyed a proper South African 'sundowner' drink. African Scops-Owls started singing around us as we drained the last of our Guinness and Stone (the best of Ghanain beers in my opinion!). A pair of Spotted-Thick-knees jumped off the road as we drove back to the hotel.
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| Northern Carmine Bee-eater is as beautiful in flight as when perched. | Red-throated Bee-eater with a bill full of bee. |
March 10, 2009
Although we had already spent two days in Mole, an excursion deep into the park ensured that the flow of new birds was uninterrupted. A grassy open area held a Banded Snake-Eagle and Red-rumped Swallows. Spotted in flight off in the distance, a White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike landed in the perfect spot and was thoroughly viewed through the scope. A strong candidate for 'bird of the day' was a stunning male Black-faced Firefinch that sallied from a thicket to drink water at a small pool. Also perched at the edge of a pool, but not so accomodating, were several Black-faced Quailfinches. After having heard several African Cuckoos, we finally enticed one into view. One of our targets for the morning was a Forbes's Plover that had been reported by another birder staying at the lodge. As we stood next to the pool where it had been seen, an initial scan did not reveal any plovers. I spotted a Swamp Flycatcher, which one group member had missed earlier. I put the bird in the scope and called her to take a look. After viewing the bird, she expressed delight and a bit of skepticism at the unexpected appearance of this 'flycatcher'. When a second member of the group looked in the scope with surprise, I decided to take a second look myself, only to find that the Swamp Flycatcher had flown off, but the Forbes' Plover had walked into the field of view! This beautiful bird, which is more different from Three-banded Plover than most books suggest, allowed close approach and good photos.
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| The odd and cryptic Spotted Creeper. | This is a Forbes' Plover, and not a Swamp Flycatcher! |
Brunch on the terrace again gave us a good bird - White-rumped Swift this time. Although we had nearly 'cleaned up' savanna species, our afternoon walk was still highly enjoyable, with good looks at scarce birds like Brown-backed Woodpecker, Spotted Creeper, and Gray-headed Bushshrike.
Another 'sundowner' was enjoyed at a beautiful and peaceful spot in the bush, with Long-tailed Nightjars singing all around us. A brief walk and some spotlighting ensured that we all saw this species well.
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| Brown-backed Woodpecker. | Look at the crest on this White-crested Helmetshrike! |
March 11, 2009
This was another travel day, from Mole NP to Bolgatanga in Ghana's far northern Upper East region. The highlight of the morning was a White Helmetshrike that teed up nicely. In west Africa, the crest of this species reaches massive proportions, which shock those familiar with the species in eastern and southern Africa!
On an earlier scouting trip, Mark Williams, William Apraku, and I had confirmed the presence of Egyptian Plover at a new site. This spectacular species is scarce across its range, and its reliable presence in Ghana adds yet another 'mega' bird to this country's avian lineup. After arriving in Bolgatanga and dropping our bags, we headed to the plover site. Moments after arrival, a stunning Egyptian Plover was spotted. Careful scans of the surrounding area revealed the presence of at least 10 plovers! This species promises to be a regular feature of our Ghana tours in the future. The plover had a strong supporting cast of interesting species including Black-headed Lapwing, African Mourning-Dove, Eurasian Turtle-Dove, and Red-chested Swallow. Despite (or perhaps as a result of) having seen few foreigners, the local people were remarkably friendly. We can only imagine what they thought of this troop of 'obruni' scanning the water intently, but their broad smiles showed nothing but friendliness! As the sun set, we visited a colony of White-billed Buffalo-Weavers, with a bonus African Silverbill perched nearby.
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| One of the most beautiful birds in Africa - Egyptian Plover. | Black-headed Lapwing is very scarce in Ghana. |
March 12, 2009
This day's birding was exclusively at the Tono Dam, with a brunch and siesta between morning and evening visits. Although this site is in the same Guinea savanna in which Mole lies, it is significantly drier, and holds lots of different bird species. The lake itself was unusually productive, with beautiful drake Northern Pintail and Garganey among the hordes of White-faced Whistling-Ducks. Water Thick-Knee was seen well and photographed. A falcon dashed by, and the consensus of the guides was that it had been a Red-necked Falcon. We were gratified when it zoomed back a few minutes later, and perched on top of a tree, allowing everyone to see it well. Starlings were everywhere, and we particularly enjoyed watching Bronze-tailed and Long-tailed Glossy-Starlings and Chestnut-bellied Starling.
Other morning highlights included Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Namaqua Dove, our best views of Mottled Spinetail, a perched Giant Kingfisher, Rufous-chested Swallow, Yellow-billed Shrike, and lots of Black-rumped Waxbills. We were fortunate to experience an overcast morning - likely a late Harmattan episode, which kept the temperatures cool and birds active throughout the morning.
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| Namaqua Doves thrive in arid areas like the savanna around Tono Dam. | Western Gray
Plantain-eater is common throughout Ghana. |
The unusually cool temperatures continued for our afternoon visit, when we birded a matrix of agricultural fields, marshes, and woodland that was crawling with birds. A Winding Cisticola at close range received a barrage of 'oos' and 'aahs' that is unusual for a cisticola! This is truly a beautiful bird when you see it well, and I would contend that this is the case with most cisticolas! Palearctic migrants that are scarce for Ghana were seen, including Sedge and Western Olivaceous Warblers. The marshes and canals supported lots of weavers, among which were Black-headed and Vitelline Masked-Weavers. Scope views of a female Greater Painted-Snipe at no more than 10 feet proved most satisfying for one participant who had missed the bird earlier. Lingering until dusk, we observed Four-banded Sandgrouse flying about and a displaying Standard-winged Nightjar.
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| Abyssinian
Roller is northern Africa's answer to the much-publicized Lilac-breasted Roller. |
Yellow-billed
Shrike is quite different from any other shrike in both appearance and behavior. |
March 13, 2009
This was primarily a travel day from the Upper East back to Kumasi, but we worked in a morning stop at the Tongo Hills. This clump of inselbergs has long been the sanctuary of a tribe that resisted all attempts at religious change, and continues in the animistic beliefs they have held for countless generations. Irrespective of the deity that hovers over them, these rocky slopes are one of few places in Ghana to sight several special bird species. One is the aptly-named Rock-loving Cisticola, which was quickly spotted as it hopped from one object of its affection to another. The beautiful Fox Kestrel was also quickly located. Other sightings included African Hobby, White-rumped Seedeater, and dozens of Cinnamon-breasted Buntings.
Driving south, we observed the landscape changing back from dry Guinea savanna to lush forest. The greens of Kumasi seemed decidedly garish after the subdued grays and browns of the savanna in dry season. We checked into our hotel in Kumasi, which is one of the best of the trip, and even offers free wireless internet! An intense evening downpour provided further evidence of our re-entry to a wetter climate.
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| Double-spurred Francolin is common in Ghana. | Towards
the end of the trip, male Pin-tailed Whydahs were coming into breeding plumage. |
 |
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| Lesser Striped-Swallow is fairly common throughout most of Ghana. | European
Pied Flycatcher is one of a large group of Palearctic birds that spend the boreal winter in Ghana. |
March 14, 2009
Although we had done remarkably well in the rainforest during the first week of our trip, we had two additional days to visit the forest and locate species that had been elusive earlier. We started at Bobiri Butterfly Forest, near Kumasi. Narina Trogon was one of the most-wanted birds for two of our group, so it was a high priority for the morning. Almost as soon as we exited the bus, we heard one singing, which was quickly joined by a second. A short walk and intense search brought us spectacular views of the oddly bare-cheeked constantia subspecies of Narina Trogon. Other interesting birds kept interfering as we observed the trogon through the scope. Most notable were Little Green Woodpecker and Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike. A calling Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill precipitated another dash into the forest, eventually bringing us to within a few yards of this tiny hornbill, whose bill glows as if lit from within, even in the dimmest rainforest.
 |
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| A
spectacular skipper that landed on my scope and allowed closeup photography at Bobiri. |
Not surprisingly, Bobiri is an excellent place to see both butterflies and birds. |
An easy walk down a forest road brought us to more great birding. Highlights included Afep Pigeon, Sabine's Spinetail, the rare Yellow-footed Honeyguide, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Black-winged Oriole, and Red-vented Malimbe. Although it had been glimpsed several times, Blue-throated Brown Sunbird had eluded many participants, so extended scope views were much appreciated. On the walk back, a stunning Preuss's Weaver capped a great morning's birding. A fantastic breakfast spread, including a generous heap of delicious local pineapple, greeted us back at headquarters, where it was enjoyed in the comfort of a breezy balcony.
A short mid-day drive brought us close to Accra and the end of our trip, though with much birding left to do. The afternoon excursion was to an area of farm scrub that looks unimpressive but holds great birds. Foremost among these were African Hobby, Dideric Cuckoo, Dusky-blue Flycatcher, Brown-crowned Tchagra, and Western Bluebill.
 |
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| The Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill and its fiery bill. | Vieillot's
Weaver looks distinctly different in the western part of West Africa than elsewhere in its range. |
March 15, 2009
Accessing the Atewa Range, and its upper evergreen forest is a challenge that is well worth the trouble. Climbing the range on this trip involved enlisting the service of two Land Rovers and skirting some recently-fallen trees. Minor problems surmounted, we found ourselves in Atewa's beautiful forest, which has a distinctively different look and feel from that of Kakum National Park. Brown-cheeked Hornbill had been the only major 'miss' of the trip so far, and stuck out every time I reviewed the list. Although it is scarce in Atewa, we were lucky to spot a noisy pair, which came to land in the trees above our heads! Yellow-billed Turaco had been another elusive species; we had heard it many times, but not so much as glimpsed one. Again, our luck was good, as everyone enjoyed views of this gorgeous, deep green turaco. Atewa is the only known site in Ghana for Blue-headed Bee-eater, and we were glad to find a pair of this species.
At mid-morning, the sky suddenly darkened, the wind began gusting, and broad banks of misty clouds rolled in. For a few moments, I felt like I was perched in Andean cloud forest at 11,000 feet, rather than on Ghana's puny Atewa hills! We were all bracing for a drenching, but the front dispersed as quickly as it gathered, and we continued birding in renewed sunshine. Additional highlights were Bronze-naped Pigeon, Ansorge's and Golden Greenbuls, Bioko Batis, a spritely pair of Black-capped Apalis, Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Ashy Flycatcher, and Maxwell's Black Weavers mobbing a green mamba. Forest Scrub-Robin called from the forest depths, but could not be lured into view.
 |
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| Hairy-breasted Barbet is a bird of the rainforest. | Dusky-blue Flycatcher caught in the act of flying. |
As we plunged back into Accra, we were again entertained by the vast array of wares for sale on the streets. If the goods contained in a dozen Wal Marts were doled out to an army of street salespeople, the chaos would be no more spectacular. One gets the feeling that if stuck in traffic in Accra long enough, every conceivable product available in the world would eventually parade by!
For the afternoon, some chose to stay in the comfortable confines of our beachside hotel, while other ventured out for a final visit to Sakumono Lagoon. The birding here was again excellent. The flocks of shorebirds contained Black-tailed Godwits, Spotted Redshank, and Ruff that were in full breeding plumage, promising color and life to northern lands still locked in winter. It is hard to conceive that a shorebird picking at the mud of the Gulf of Guinea in mid-March might have a nest full of young in Finland within 8 or 9 weeks. Sighting a Black Coucal was gratifying for one participant, who had missed this species on multiple trips to Africa.
 |
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| Yellow-browed
Camaroptera has blue sacs on the sides of its throat that inflate when its gives its whining call! |
The striking Rufous-crowned Eremomela. |
 |
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| Along with the eremomelas, Gray Longbill is an Old World Warbler. | Little Green Sunbird. |
March 16, 2009
The final morning of the tour was spent at Shai Hills Reserve, where the tour had begun over two weeks previous. The morning was surprisingly quite, making us realize how exceptional the birding had been for most of the trip. Nonetheless, some fine species were located. Foremost among these was Guinea Turaco, which had previously only been heard. A huge covey of half-grown Stone Partridges erupted from the trail-side to the entertainment of all. Final encounters with spectacular species like Violet Turaco and Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat were also welcome.
At a final lunch, we completed the final column of our list, exchanged e-mail addresses, plotted future travels, and said our good-bys. Every member of our party had enjoyed every day of travel - amazing birds, great companionship, and the friendly and welcoming country of Ghana. For myself, I can't wait to return to Ghana and guide another trip. Although this trip sets the bar very high, I am confident that the next Tropical Birding trip to this country can do just as well!
BIRD LIST
This list includes all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of the participants. Taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2007. The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World, Sixth Edition. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press. 'H' denotes a bird that was heard and not seen.
GREBES: PodicipedidaeLittle Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
CORMORANTS: Phalacrocoracidae
Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus
HERONS, BITTERNS AND EGRETS: Ardeidae
Gray Heron Ardea cinerea
Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
Great Egret Ardea alba
Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca
Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Western Reef-Heron Egretta gularis
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
HAMERKOP: Scopidae
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta
STORKS: Ciconiidae
Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus
Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
IBIS AND SPOONBILLS: Threskiornithidae
Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
DUCKS, GEESE AND SWANS: Anatidae
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata
Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis
Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Garganey Anas querquedula
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
HAWKS, EAGLES AND KITES: Accipitridae
Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus
White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus
White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Banded Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinerascens
Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus
Congo Serpent-Eagle Dryotriorchis spectabilis
Western Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus
African Harrier-Hawk (Gymnogene) Polyboroides typus
Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus
Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates
Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar
Shikra Accipiter badius
Black Goshawk Accipiter melanoleucus
Long-tailed Hawk Urotriorchis macrourus
Grasshopper Buzzard Butastur rufipennis
Red-necked Buzzard Buteo auguralis
Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi
African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster
Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus
FALCONS: Falconidae
Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Fox Kestrel Falco alopex
Gray Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus
Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera
African Hobby Falco cuvierii
Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo
Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus
PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES: Phasianidae
White-throated Francolin Francolinus albogularis
Forest Francolin Francolinus lathami
Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus
Stone Partridge Ptilopachus petrosus
GUINEAFOWL: Numididae
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
RAILS, GALLINULES AND COOTS: Rallidae
White-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura pulchra
Nkulengu Rail Himantornis haematopus
Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
FINFOOTS: Heliornithidae
African Finfoot Podica senegalensis
BUSTARDS: Otididae
Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster
JACANAS: Jacanidae
African Jacana Actophilornis africanus
PAINTED SNIPE: Rostratulidae
Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis
AVOCETS AND STILTS: Recurvirostridae
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
THICK-KNEES: Burhinidae
Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis
Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus
Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis
COURSERS AND PRATINCOLES: Glareolidae
Egyptian Plover Pluvianus aegyptius
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS: Charadriidae
Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus
Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus
Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus
Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius
White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus
Forbes' Plover Charadrius forbesi
SANDPIPERS: Scolopacidae
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Red Knot Calidris canutus
Sanderling Calidris alba
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
TERNS: Sternidae
Little Tern Sternula albifrons
Black Tern Chlidonias niger
Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus
Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis
SANDGROUSE: Pteroclidae
Four-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles quadricinctus
PIGEONS AND DOVES: Columbidae
Rock Pigeon Columba livia
Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
Afep Pigeon Columba unicincta
Bronze-naped Pigeon Columba iriditorques
Eurasian Turtle-Dove Streptopelia turtur
African Morning-Dove Streptopelia decipiens
Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata
Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Black-billed Wood-Dove Turtur abyssinicus
Blue-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur afer
Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria
Blue-headed Wood-Dove Turtur brehmeri
Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
Bruce's Green-Pigeon Treron waalia
African Green-Pigeon Treron calvus
PARROTS: Psittacidae
Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri
Red-headed Lovebird Agapornis pullarius
Gray Parrot Psittacus erithacus
Red-fronted Parrot Poicephalus gulielmi
Senegal Parrot Poicephalus senegalus
TURACOS: Musophagidae
Guinea (Green) Turaco Tauraco persa
Yellow-billed Turaco Tauraco macrorhynchus
Violet Turaco Musophaga violacea
Western Plantain-eater Crinifer piscator
CUCKOOS: Cuculidae
Levaillant's Cuckoo Clamator levaillantii
Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius H
Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus
African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis
Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo Cercococcyx olivinus H
Klaas' Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas
African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus
Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius
Yellowbill Ceuthmochares aereus
Black Coucal Centropus grillii
Black-throated Coucal Centropus leucogaster
Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus
Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis
BARN-OWLS: Tytonidae
Barn Owl Tyto alba
OWLS: Strigidae
African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis
Northern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis leucotis
Fraser's Eagle-Owl Bubo poensis
Pel's Fishing-Owl Scotopelia peli
Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum
Barred Owlet Glaucidium capense H
NIGHTJARS: Caprimulgidae
Brown Nightjar Caprimulgus binotatus
Black-shouldered Nightjar Caprimulgus nigriscapularis H
Long-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus climacurus
Standard-winged Nightjar Macrodipteryx longipennis
SWIFTS: Apodidae
Black Spinetail Telacanthura melanopygia
Sabine's Spinetail Rhaphidura sabini
Cassin's Spinetail Neafrapus cassini
African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus
Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis
Common Swift Apus apus
Little Swift Apus affinis
White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
TROGONS: Trogonidae
Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina
KINGFISHERS: Alcedinidae
Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata
African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta
Dwarf Kingfisher Ispidina lecontei
Chocolate-backed Kingfisher Halcyon badia
Gray-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala
Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis
Blue-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon malimbica
Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti
Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maximus
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
BEE-EATERS: Meropidae
Black Bee-eater Merops gularis
Blue-headed Bee-eater Merops muelleri
Red-throated Bee-eater Merops bulocki
Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus
White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis
Rosy Bee-eater Merops malimbicus
Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus
ROLLERS: Coraciidae
Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinicus
Rufous-crowned Roller Coracias noevius
Blue-bellied Roller Coracias cyanogaster
Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus
Blue-throated Roller Eurystomus gularis
WOODHOOPOES AND SCIMITAR-BILLS: Phoeniculidae
Green Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus
White-headed Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus bollei
Forest Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus castaneiceps
Black Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus aterrimus
HORNBILLS: Bucerotidae
White-crested Hornbill Tockus albocristatus
Black Dwarf Hornbill Tockus hartlaubi
Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill Tockus camurus
Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus
African Pied Hornbill Tockus fasciatus
African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus
Brown-cheeked Hornbill Ceratogymna cylindrica
Black-casqued Hornbill Ceratogymna atrata
Yellow-casqued Hornbill Ceratogymna elata
BARBETS: Capitonidae
Yellow-billed Barbet Trachyphonus purpuratus
Bristle-nosed Barbet Gymnobucco peli
Naked-faced Barbet Gymnobucco calvus
Speckled Tinkerbird Pogoniulus scolopaceus
Red-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus atroflavus
Yellow-throated Tinkerbird Pogoniulus subsulphureus
Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus bilineatus
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus
Yellow-spotted Barbet Buccanodon duchaillui
Hairy-breasted Barbet Tricholaema hirsuta
Vieillot's Barbet Lybius vieilloti
Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus
Bearded Barbet Lybius dubius
HONEYGUIDES: Indicatoridae
Cassin's Honeyguide Prodotiscus insignis
Yellow-footed Honeyguide Melignomon eisentrauti
Wilcock's Honeyguide Indicator willcocksi
Least Honeyguide Indicator exilis H
Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor
Spotted Honeyguide Indicator maculatus H
Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator
WOODPECKERS: Picidae
Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla
African Piculet Sasia africana
Fine-spotted Woodpecker Campethera punctuligera
Little Green Woodpecker Campethera maculosa
Buff-spotted Woodpecker Campethera nivosa
Fire-bellied Woodpecker Dendropicos pyrrhogaster
Gray Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae
Brown-backed Woodpecker Dendropicos obsoletus
BROADBILLS: Eurylaimidae
Rufous-sided Broadbill Smithornis rufolateralis
PASSERIFORMES: Alaudidae
Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis
SWALLOWS: Hirundinidae
Fanti Sawwing Psalidoprocne obscura
Square-tailed Sawwing Psalidoprocne nitens
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Red-chested Swallow Hirundo lucida
Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii
White-throated Blue Swallow Hirundo nigrita
Ethiopian Swallow Hirundo aethiopica
Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula
House Martin Delichon urbicum
Lesser Striped-Swallow Cecropis abyssinica
Rufous-chested Swallow Cecropis semirufa
Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
Preuss' Swallow Petrochelidon preussi
WAGTAILS AND PIPITS: Motacillidae
Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis
Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus
African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
CUCKOO-SHRIKES: Campephagidae
White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike Coracina pectoralis
Blue Cuckoo-shrike Coracina azurea
Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga phoenicea
Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga quiscalina
BULBULS: Pycnonotidae
Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus
Little Greenbul Andropadus virens
(Little) Gray Greenbul Andropadus gracilis
Ansorge's Greenbul Andropadus ansorgei
Plain (Cameroon Sombre) Greenbul Andropadus curvirostris
Slender-billed Greenbul Andropadus gracilirostris
Yellow-whiskered Greenbul Andropadus latirostris
Golden Greenbul Calyptocichla serina
Honeyguide Greenbul Baeopogon indicator
Simple Greenbul Chlorocichla simplex
Yellow-throated Greenbul Chlorocichla flavicollis
Swamp Greenbul Thescelocichla leucopleura
White-throated Greenbul Phyllastrephus albigularis
Icterine Greenbul Phyllastrephus icterinus
Common (Red-tailed) Bristlebill Bleda syndactylus
Yellow-spotted Nicator Nicator chloris
Red-tailed Greenbul Criniger calurus
Western Bearded-Greenbul Criniger barbatus
THRUSHES: Turdidae
Finsch's Flycatcher-Thrush Neocossyphus finschii
African Thrush Turdus pelios
Fire-crested Alethe Alethe diademata H
CISTICOLAS AND ALLIES: Cisticolidae
Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops
Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans H
Whistling Cisticola Cisticola lateralis
Rock-loving Cisticola Cisticola aberrans
Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes
Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis
Siffling Cisticola Cisticola brachypterus
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava
Red-winged (Warbler) Prinia Prinia erythroptera
Black-capped Apalis Apalis nigriceps
Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida
Sharpe's Apalis Apalis sharpii
Oriole Warbler Hypergerus atriceps
Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura
Yellow-browed Camaroptera Camaroptera superciliaris
Olive-green Camaroptera Camaroptera chloronota
OLD WORLD WARBLERS: Sylviidae
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida
Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta
Senegal Eremomela Eremomela pusilla
Rufous-crowned Eremomela Eremomela badiceps
Green Crombec Sylvietta virens
Lemon-bellied Crombec Sylvietta denti
Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura
Kemp's Longbill Macrosphenus kempi H
Gray Longbill Macrosphenus concolor
Green Hylia Hylia prasina
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix
Violet-backed Hyliota Hyliota violacea
OLD WORLD FLYCATCHERS: Muscicapidae
Pale (Pallid) Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus
Northern Black-Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides
African (Fraser's) Forest-Flycatcher Fraseria ocreata
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Ussher's Flycatcher Muscicapa ussheri
Swamp Flycatcher Muscicapa aquatica
Little Gray Flycatcher Muscicapa epulata
Dusky-blue Flycatcher Muscicapa comitata
Ashy Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens
Cassin's Flycatcher Muscicapa cassini
Gray-throated Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus griseigularis
Gray Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus
European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
Forest Robin Stiphrornis erythrothorax
Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha niveicapilla
White-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha albicapilla
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
Forest Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucosticta H
Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris
Mocking Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris
WATTLE-EYES: Platysteiridae
Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher Bias musicus
Brown-throated (Common) Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea
Chestnut Wattle-eye Platysteira castanea
Senegal Batis Batis senegalensis
West African Batis Batis occulta
MONARCH FLYCATCHERS: Monarchidae
Chestnut-capped Flycatcher Erythrocercus mccallii
African Blue-Flycatcher Elminia longicauda
Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher Trochocercus nitens
Black-headed (Red-bellied) Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone rufiventer
African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis
ROCKFOWL: Picathartidae
White-necked Rockfowl (Yellow-headed Picathartes) Picathartes gymnocephalus
BABBLERS: Timaliidae
Blackcap Illadopsis Illadopsis cleaveri H
Puvel's Illadopsis Illadopsis puveli H
Blackcap Babbler Turdoides reinwardtii
Brown Babbler Turdoides plebejus
TITS: Paridae
White-shouldered Black-Tit Melaniparus guineensis
TREECREEPERS: Certhiidae
Spotted Creeper Salpornis spilonotus
PENDULINE-TITS: Remizidae
Tit-hylia Pholidornis rushiae
SUNBIRDS: Nectariniidae
Scarlet-tufted (Fraser's) Sunbird Deleornis fraseri
Little Green Sunbird Anthreptes seimundi
Green Sunbird Anthreptes rectirostris
Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris
Pygmy Sunbird Hedydipna platura
Green-headed Sunbird Cyanomitra verticalis
Blue-throated Brown Sunbird Cyanomitra cyanolaema
Eastern Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivacea
Buff-throated Sunbird Chalcomitra adelberti
Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis
Olive-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris chloropygius
Tiny Sunbird Cinnyris minullus
Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus
Splendid Sunbird Cinnyris coccinigastrus
Johanna's Sunbird Cinnyris johannae
Superb Sunbird Cinnyris superbus
Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cupreus
WHITE-EYES: Zosteropidae
African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis
ORIOLES: Oriolidae
African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus
Western Black-headed Oriole Oriolus brachyrhynchus
Black-winged Oriole Oriolus nigripennis
SHRIKES: Laniidae
Common Fiscal Lanius collaris
Yellow-billed Shrike Corvinella corvina
BUSHSHRIKES AND ALLIES: Malaconotidae
Brubru Nilaus afer
Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis
Large-billed (Sabin's) Puffback Dryoscopus sabini
Black-crowned (-headed) Tchagra Tchagra senegalus
Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis
Common (Yellow-crowned) Gonolek Laniarius barbarus
Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike Telophorus sulfureopectus
Gray-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti
HELMETSHRIKES AND ALLIES: Prionopidae
White Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus
Chestnut-bellied (Red-billed) Helmetshrike Prionops caniceps
DRONGOS: Dicruridae
Square-tailed Drongo Dicrurus ludwigii
Shining Drongo Dicrurus atripennis
Fork-tailed (Glossy-backed) Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis
Velvet-mantled Drongo Dicrurus modestus
CROWS: Corvidae
Piapiac Ptilostomus afer
Pied Crow Corvus albus
STARLINGS: Sturnidae
Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus
Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus
Bronze-tailed Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chalcurus
Splendid Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis splendidus
Purple Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpureus
Long-tailed Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis caudatus
Chestnut-bellied Starling Lamprotornis pulcher
Copper-tailed Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis cupreocauda
Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster
Chestnut-winged Starling Onychognathus fulgidus
Narrow-tailed Starling Poeoptera lugubris
OLD WORLD SPARROWS: Passeridae
Gray-headed Sparrow Passer griseus
Bush Petronia Petronia dentata
WEAVERS: Ploceidae
White-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis albirostris
Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser superciliosus
Red-vented Malimbe Malimbus scutatus
Gray's (Blue-billed) Malimbe Malimbus nitens
Red-headed Malimbe Malimbus rubricollis
Red-headed Quelea Quelea erythrops
Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea
Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps
Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus
Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis
Orange Weaver Ploceus aurantius
Vieillot's (Black) Weaver Ploceus nigerrimus
Vitelline Masked-Weaver Ploceus vitellinus
Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus
Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus
Yellow-mantled Weaver Ploceus tricolor
Maxwell's Black (White-naped) Weaver Ploceus albinucha
Preuss' (Golden-backed) Weaver Ploceus preussi
Compact Weaver Pachyphantes superciliosus
Black-winged Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus
Orange Bishop Euplectes franciscanus
Yellow-shouldered (-mantled) Widowbird Euplectes macroura
Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons
WAXBILLS AND ALLIES: Estrildidae
Pale-fronted Negrofinch Nigrita luteifrons
Gray-headed Negrofinch Nigrita canicapillus
Chestnut-breasted Negrofinch Nigrita bicolor
White-breasted Negrofinch Nigrita fusconotus
Lavender Waxbill Estrilda caerulescens
Orange-cheeked Waxbill Estrilda melpoda
Black-rumped Waxbill Estrilda troglodytes
Western Bluebill Spermophaga haematina
Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus
Red-winged Pytilia Pytilia phoenicoptera
Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala
Bar-breasted Firefinch Lagonosticta rufopicta
Black-faced Firefinch Lagonosticta larvata
African (Blue-billed) Firefinch Lagonosticta rubricata
Black-faced (African) Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis
Bronze Mannikin Spermestes cucullatus
Black-and-white Mannikin Spermestes bicolor
African (Common) Silverbill Euodice cantans
INDIGOBIRDS: Viduidae
Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura
Paradise-Whydah sp. Vidua sp.
SEEDEATERS: Fringillidae
White-rumped Seedeater Serinus leucopygius
Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus
BUNTINGS: Emberizidae
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi
441 Species, of which 12 were heard and not seen
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MAMMAL LIST
Based on Kingdon 1997
Olive Baboon Papio anubis
Callithris Monkey Cercopithecus sabaeus
Patas Monkey Cercopithecus patas
Mona Monkey Cercopithecus mona
Lesser Spot-nosed Monkey Cercopithecus petaurista
Demidoff's Galago Galagoides demidoff H
Straw-coloured Fruit Bat Eidolon helvum
Egyptian Fruit Bat Rousettus aegyptiacus
Hairy Bat sp. Myotis sp.
Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis
Striped Ground Squirrel Euxerus erythropus
Fire-footed Rope Squirrel Funisciurus pyrropus H
Green Squirrel Paraxerus poensis
Gambian Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus gambianus
Giant Pouched Rat Cricetomys sp.
Blotched Genet Genetta tigrina
Eastern Tree Hyrax Dendrohyrax dorsalis H
African Elephant Loxodonta africana
Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus
Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus
Maxwell's Duiker Cephalophus maxwelli
Kob Kobus kob
Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus
23 mammal species, of which 3 were heard and not seen
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| Pied Kingfisher at an idyllic lagoon. | Speckled Tinkerbird is one of many tinkerbird species in the Ghanain rainforest. |