NAMIBIA

The living Desert

 

16th -31st  October 2004

 

Leader : Christian Boix

 

 Photographs : Christian Boix, John Anderson and Ian Fulton

 

The charismatic and recently described Damara Hornbill

 

“-Overall this trip was a blast. Three aspects made it  possible, great birds, great countryside and an absolute gem of a guy called Christian. I know he only had two people to look after but he really was first class both as a birder and as a friend. I certainly hope to meet up with him again on another trip. I don't need to say anymore” J.Anderson (2004).

 

Trip Itinerary :

 

16 October

Airport pick-up, Windhoek (Avis dam, Sewage works…)

17 October

Avis dam, Gamsberg road C26, Nauchas, Spreetshoogte Pass

18 October

Spreetshoogte, Solitaire, Homeb, Walvis Bay

19 October

Walvis Bay and Rooibank

20 October

Walvis Bay, Spitzkoppe, Omaruru, Epako Lodge (night drive)

21 October

Epako Lodge, Omaruru Kopje

22 October

Epako Lodge, Outjo, Okakuejo (Etosha NP)

23 October

Okakuejo-Halali-Namutoni

24 October

Namutoni-Andoni-Rundu-Okavango River

25 October

Okavango River (Shamvura Camp)

26 October

Okavango River-Popa Falls-Babwata GR.

27 October

Shakawe Fishing Lodge (Botswana)

28 October

Shakawe Fishing Lodge (Botswana)

29 October

Shakawe - Okavango River (Shamvura Camp)

30 October

Okavango River (Shamvura Camp)- Waterberg NP

31 October

Waterberg NP – Windhoek-Fly-out

 

Trip Highlights :

 

October, 16th  : Before I could even memorise who John and Iain were, their introductory remark after the 12 hour flight was : “ Christian….Lets go birding” and it was this eagerness and enthusiasm that set the pace for one of the most memorable birding trips in Namibia I have had the pleasure to guide. Straight off the airport near-endemics started to reel in Northern Black Korhaan, SA Cliff Swallow, Whitebacked Mousebird, Southern Ant-eating Chat, Short-toed Rock Thrush and  Burchell’s Starling. Other “barb & phone wire specials” included Familiar Chat, Marico Chat, Lilac breasted and Purple Roller, Southern Yellowbilled Hornbill, Scaly feathered and Redheaded Finch, and a well studied carcass of a freshly killed Southern Whitefaced Owl.

 

Having dropped our suitcases and freshened up slightly we drove to Avis Dam where we spent a few hours birding some excellent dry savanna scrub, feasting on Rockrunners, Bradfield’s Swift, Swallowtailed Bee-eaters (photo below), Goldenbreasted Bunting, Crimson breasted Shrike, Violet-eared Waxbill, Marico and Scarletchested Sunbird, Scimitar billed Woodhoopoe, Brubru, Blackcheeked Waxbill, Blackchested Prinia, Pririt Batis and Redbilled Buffalo Weaver among others.

The last hours of the afternoon were spent at the Gammams Sewage treatment plant racking up a few more species before calling it a day.  We were particularly pleased to see African Black Duck, SA Shelduck, Little Bittern and Pearl-breasted Swallow, and enjoyed close up views of Hottentot, Cape and Redbilled Teal, Southern Pochard, Darter, White breasted Cormorant, African Jacana, Squacco Heron, Black Crake, Redbilled Francolin, White throated Swallow, the first Barn Swallow of the year, Pintail Whydah, Red Bishop, Cape and African Marsh Warblers.

 

The light dimmed on us and the final count was a whopping 100 odd species after a barely 3,5 hour birding stint.  Cold Namibian beer, a West African meal and a few more beers capped the first day of the tour.

 

October, 17th  :  A pre-dawn break for the hills surrounding Windhoek set us up to clench the elusive and early-rising Orange River Francolin…which after a few nerve racking minutes of not knowing if we should charge towards it, or wait for it to approach….showed itself beautifully calling back with an entourage of females feeding around the male, great views of a great bird and great start to the day. The walk back to the car yielded a few more welcome species such as Three streaked Tchagra, African Barred Warbler, Desert Cisticola and Ashy Tit to mention some.

Shortly after breakfast we hit the road towards Spreets hoogte on the Khomas Hochland.  No sooner had we left the outskirts of Windhoek a pair of Monteiro’s Hornbills (photo right) welcomed us into the wilderness, the recently split Damara Hornbill showed up beautifully next to the road, Mountain Wheatear and Chat Flycatcher heralded the fence lines.  A Rufous-eared Warbler and a stately Kori Bustard.made a surprise early appearance barely 20 kms outside Windhoek.

The systematic search of active Sociable Weaver nests soon paid off and the first of many Pigmy Falcon, as well as several handsome Rosyfaced Lovebirds where clenched.  Pale Chanting Goshawks adorned the telephone poles throughout the route (photo left). A beef carcass next to the road attracted a kettle of 20 Whitebacked Vultures and nine Lappetfaced Vultures as well as a few Tawny Eagles and a solitary Black-chested snake Eagle.

 

Along the road Sabota Lark (the thickbilled morph) , Buffy and Longbilled Pipits were abundant.

 

A short walk along a dry river bed in search of Pied Babblers, yielded African Hoopoe, Grey Go-away Bird, African Hawk Eagle a sun burnt scalp, a thirst to kill and the need to backtrack our steps in search of Iain’s new video camera which had surreptitiously slipped out of the camera bag coming down and embankment. It was soon tracked down and we set off without further delays to the edge of the escarpment.  Near Nauchas a brief stop to admire a pair of White-tailed Shrikes also produced Karoo Longbilled Lark, Cape and Larklike Bunting, Layard’s Titbabbler, Yellow Canary and Bokmakierie. The reception committee at Namibgrens Guesthouse was a very confiding Karoo Robin.

 

We ended the day birding the base of the Spreetshoogte Pass adding Verreaux’s Eagle, Whitethroated Canary, Greybacked Cisticola, Palewinged Starling and witnessed how an Augur Buzzard feasted on a Dassie rat next to the road.

 

On the mammal front we had many grazing Springbok along the C26, several Warthog and startled Steenbok plus a few Kudus coming down to drink placidly at Namibgrens Guest farm.

 

October, 18th  : Today was a long, dry and dusty day crossing the gravel and sandy plains of the Namib (photo above) but not without well staked out rewards which one by one rendered much deserved joy to our epic hot journey.  We started the day enjoying a very young Verreaux’s chick about to fledge clinging at the edge of its nest, plus a herd of Hartmaan’s Zebra grazing in this rugged wilderness atop the escarpment. At the top of  Spreetshoogte pass we were surprised by Fawncoloured Lark feeding next to Sabotas Lark.  Nearing the lower reaches of the pass we came across and impressive Ludwig’s Bustard male and whilst still savouring its beauty a pair of near-endemic Rupell’s Korhaans crossed the road ahead of us.

 

The obligate stop at Solitaire for petrol, coffee and appfeltart was rewarded with great views of Cape Sparrow, Lanner Falcon, Greater Kestrel, Ground Squirrels and Yellow Mongoose

The gravel plains near Zebra Pan were sizzling hot by the time we reached them, nonetheless several groups of Gray’s Lark were found, Trac-trac Chats (photo left) played hard to get but were eventually located (an interesting pair formed by a pale coastal form individual and the browner plains form, were seen together).  Ostriches were confiding and abundant and Karoo Chats inquisitive as ever.

 

At Homeb we were treated to several close up views of Orange River White-eye. Hot and tired we pressed on for the cool mists of Walvis Bay where we birded briefly the freshwater ponds and the esplanade before calling it a day.  The ponds yielded Cape Shoveler, Purple Swamphen, Kelp Gull, Hartlaubs Gull, Greyheaded Gull, Lesser and Greater Flamingo and Great White Pelican.

 

The esplanade was teeming with waders but one in specific, Chestnutbanded Plover, brought some closure to Johns ordeal with this species….after many dipping attempts and years of unsuccessful chase in Kenya and South Africa. Other species enjoyed included Damara Tern, Caspian Tern, White fronted Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Sanderling, Turnstone, Pied Avocet, Grey Plover, Sanderling, Whimbrel, Bar-tailed Godwit and many others.

 

Mammalwise today we added the regal Oryx, the agile Klipspringer, sly Black-backed Jackal and the recently split Mountain Ground Squirrel.

 

Supper at the new Aquarius hotel was scrumptious and laying down our bones for a well deserved rest….bliss.

 

October, 19th : In the early morning we were picked up by  4x4’s and set off to Pelican Point from where we reached the lagoon’s mouth by Kayak and were treated to arms length views of Cape Gannet, Arctic Skuas, more Damara Terns, White chinned Petrel, Sooty Shearwater and played about with a few pods Heavyside dolphin (a Benguela endemic) and the ubiquitous Cape Fur Seals. Near Donkey bay we came across several coast scavenging Black-backed Jackals, one of them nurturing a week old pup.

 

The early afternoon was spent wader watching, not much was added other than Redshank and Rednecked Phalarope.  A siberian morph of Peregrine Falcon, quarry in talons, darted past our car and settled in the glimmery hazes of some distant dunes.  Saturated of waders and flamingoes we decided to drive to Rooibank to look for Dune Lark and possibly free us from having to do so the following morning.

 

After 30 minutes of walking amongst red sand dunes we picked up fresh tracks of this cryptic yet elegant lark, and ten minutes later we were enjoying cracking views of what is potentially the only true endemic bird species in Namibia, perched on a dune crest, preening and feeding at the base of a grass tussock and some Nara melon bushes.

 

We bid farewell to the day at the Guano platforms enjoying Crowned, Whitebreasted and Cape Cormorants coming in to roost by the thousands.

 

October 20th : A very early start ensured that by sunrise we were enjoying gob-smacking views of Spitzkoppe bathed in orange sunrise light. Spikeheeled Larks feeding youngsters welcomed us by the road edge, Gray’s Larks flitted off  the gravel plains as we drove past, the white rumped morph of Karoo Chats and Trac-trac Chats dotted the fence lines, and several choirs of Ruppell’s Korhaan (photo below) were calling from distant ridges.

 

We tried the normal birding access route into Spitzkoppe, but a dense coastal fog bank set in and stole precious time and cool hours from our schedule.  We backtracked and approached Spitzkoppe from a different access road. Our first reward came in the form of a very large family of Meerkats which scuttled off, tails aloft, only to stop at a safe distance and stare at us from raised heels.   Whilst admiring the latter we heard the faint croakings of  Burchell’s Coursers, and soon enough we tracked down a small group and enjoyed prolongued scope views of this unpredictable and highly nomadic rain tracking species.

 

Flocks of Namaqua Sandgrouse cruised the skies in search of water supplies. 

 

The walk around Spitzkoppe was brief yet efficient, managing to locate a non-territorial Herrero Chat (photo below left) in less than 10 minutes after reaching its territory. Its characteristic and  purposeful, low and fast flight pattern stood out from the remaining bird traffic in the area. Once located we enjoyed great scope views of the bird.  Several morphs of Mountain Chat were noticed during our walk as well as several Benguela Larks on the northern gravel plains. Whitethroated Canaries appeared busy building nests whilst Yellow Canaries and Larklike Buntings shunted back and forth from water pools.

 

En route to Omaruru we stopped briefly at the Khan River, which rewarded us with great views of foraging Violet Woodhoopoes, our first African Cuckoo, three chattering and feeding Ruppell’s Parrots, an inter-territorial dispute amongst White-tailed Shrikes, several Bearded Woodpeckers, a Pearl spotted owlet eating a small bird, Whitebrowed Scrub-Robin, Damara, Grey and S.Yellowbilled Hornbill.

 

 

With the heat building up, we headed for our accommodation at Epako Game Lodge.

 

In the afternoon we walked up one of the koppies (hills) surrounding camp and bagged Carp’s Black Tit, S Whitecrowned Shrike, Cinnamon breasted Bunting, Redfaced Mousebird and had the chance to enjoy a fair amount of game, namely Giraffe, Blue Wildebeest, Burchell’s Zebra, Kudu, Impala, Oryx, Springbok, Damara Dik-dik and even flushed the rare and reclusive Jameson’s Red Rock rabbit.  Gin and tonics with the resident pair of White Rhinos down below, summed up another great day.

 

After supper we embarked on a night drive that proved to be more successful than anticipated, yielding African Scops Owl, several Red crested Korhaans, a beautiful African Wild Cat and several Black-backed Jackals.

 

October 21st :  Today we set off before sunrise to a well-staked out area near Omaruru where Hartlaub’s Francolins are not shy to perform. Soon after reaching the spot and setting up the scope, the first duet burst into song, these were swiftly located on a distant boulder and enjoyed, but the show was not over yet and the pair flew towards us and called again from a few meters away, in the open and well lighted bringing out all their features. 

 

Whilst we walked out of this granite boulder ravine Monteiro’s hornbill, Rockrunner, Carp’s Tit and several White-tailed Shrikes put up an appearance, reminder of what an excellent endemic hotspot the Erongo mountains are.

 

As the morning progressed and it got hotter, we seeked refuge under the thick branches of Anna and Camelthorn Trees in the Omaruru river. More Ruppell’s Parrots offered fly-by views, Bearded and Cardinal Woodpeckers were busy nest building. But the quarry we were after, Pied Babbler, was no-where to be heard.  We flushed and followed a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl (photo right) for a while soaking in the some great views. On the way out of the river we located a pair of Black Eagles soaring near their nest.

 

We stopped at Erongo Wilderness Lodge for coffee and enjoyed their bird bath and feeder allowing John and Iain some excellent chances to photograph Rosy faced Lovebird (photo below), Acacia Pied Barbet, Violet-eared Waxbill, Golden breasted Bunting, Namibia Rock Agamas and shy Dassie rats.  Driving back to Epako Lodge we came across a flock of Chestnut Weavers which unfortunately were not in breeding plumage, but their pale brown eyes and thickset bills gave them away.

 

When the heat dropped and bird activity picked up again, we headed out on the Uis road towards an alternative spot where I had seen Pied Babblers before. It took a good hour to locate them as they refused to reply to any playback, but in the end we found a unit of three individuals foraging.  A short burst of playback got the attention of the sentry bird which came and perched inquisitively out in the open.

 

We returned to Epako and had an early night in order to leave a.s.a.p the following morning and allow for some birding en route towards Etosha

 

October 22nd : The morning started on a high note with a splendid specimen of Martial eagle perched next to the road followed by several stately Tawny eagles heralding their respective koppies.  A combination of back roads, road verges and short grass fields en route to Etosha produced a suite of desirable new species such as Stark’s Lark, Grey backed Finchlark, loads of singing Fawn coloured Larks and a welcome Burchell’s Sandgrouse.

 

On arrival at Okakuejo we gathered at the waterhole where after scattering a bit of bird feed about  we soon gathered a welcome crowd of Sociable Weavers as well as some rather desirable species like Shaft-tailed Whydah (albeit not in breeding plumage) and Black-throated Canary.  The waterhole itself was well attended by Springbok, Oryx and Kudu and amongst them flocks of Red capped Larks squeezed by to the waters edge. A raucous pair of Black Crows set the backstage and a dopey pair of Spotted Dikkops stood motionless in the shadow of an uprooted tree.

 

The afternoon was spent driving towards Olifanstbad and Goas, via Gemsbokvlakte.  Kori Bustards displayed everywhere, several Black Korhaan and Redcrested Korhaan were enjoyed standing next to the road.  At Newbrownii we caught up with a single Southern Grey Tit a bird that is more commonly seen further south than these latitudes. Ian spotted our first Lion of the trip, a cub that had just come out from beneath the road culvert and laid panting besides the road. Throughout the afternoon we came across several Double-banded Coursers (photo above right).  Gemsbokvlakte was teeming with Stark´s, Pinkbilled and Spikeheeled Larks as well as Yellowbellied Eremomelas, plus it did not took long to spot some more Rufous-eared Warblers (photo below left).

 

At Aus we enjoyed a Purple Roller rolling and the first set of Redbreasted Swallows of the trip. A quick drive to Ondongab produced another beautiful male Ludwig’s Bustard. 

 

Much of the afternoon was spent taking some time watching Elephants drinking and bathing, following a female herd, and enjoying two massive white mud coated bulls that chomped through a spiny meal right next to the road.  The extremely cautious and complicated approach of a Giraffe coming in for a drink and the theatrics that always take place within Burchell’s Zebra herds. Bright golden light squeezed through the clouds and a backdrop of lead grey storm menacing clouds bringing to life the plains which were clad with Wildebeest, Springbok, Oryx and Zebra on their northern migration.

 

At Leeubron we bump into a young Lion pride cryptically positioned along a game trail that lead into Leeubron.

 

Before calling it a day we drove towards Okondeka via Leeubron and stopped at a large Camelthorn which seems to have become a favourite playground for this years batch of Rednecked Falcons, unmistakably in front of us 5 Red necked falcons frolicked in the wind chasing each other and stooping about and around the tree.

 

Before supper we gathered around the waterhole and watched Doublebanded Sandgrouse rain from every direction over the waterhole with their melodious approach whistle.  After supper the floodlit waterhole produced a single Black Rhinoceros.

 

October 23rd : The day could not have started better, at 05h00 we were awaken by the thunderous roar of lion at the waterhole. The drive through to Halali will be remembered by the various prides of lion we bumped into.  A first one of six individuals all dopey and potbellied suggested a successful evening. The second one of 8 had three adult males in it, two contesting for a female in oestrous and the remaining 5 trying to keep the Jackals at bay from their kill.  A very worthwhile sighting was a graceful Cape Fox strutting across the plains near Salvadora.

 

Last nights rain had the Monotonous Larks all in arms and their calls swamped the atmosphere at the mopane woodlands.

At the open plains, a steady flow of low flying Eurasian Swifts allowed us to hope that the heat would subside soon and the rains to the north would push some of the migrants we were looking for, namely Caspian Plover. No plovers this day, but we did manage to catch a glimpse of a Blackwinged Pratincole and follow it for a while till it landed, an unusual bird for Etosha.

 

Many Bateleurs (photo right) were sighted throughout the morning, and at a fresh kill we lucked upon a  flock of vultures descend on it and feasting on leftovers. In a matter of minutes several Lappetfaceds, White backeds, Bateleurs and a single yet very welcome Whiteheaded Vulture congregated right in front of us.

 

 

 

 

We reached Halali at midday and after a quick snack, bagged our main target here, Barecheeked Babbler (photo below). A begging chick was spotted quivering in a branch, soon to be fed by its parents. We followed and photographed the foraging parents till we were saturated and then left.  Near Moringa waterhole we spished  in a pair of Southern Black Tits.

 

En route to Namutoni, we followed a pair of strutting Secretary Birds and watched how one of them stamped and caught a small snake. Game was plentiful, albeit a searing heat was building up.

 

October 24th : We decided to leave Etosha via Andoni Plains, coming across a large pride of Lions resting their weary bones next to the road at Fisher’s Pan and pair of regal Blue Cranes strutting placidly along the Pans edge.  Not far from Klein Okevi the bush became alive with the distinctive trills of Fawncoloured Larks.  Before reaching Andoni a few more Monotonous Larks were seen and heard calling, whilst Clapper Larks in the thousands of flapped and whistled above grass level creating an awesome all-surround sight and sound. A single pair of Flappet larks displayed just outside the parks entrance.  Quartering the grasslands a buoyant Montagu Harrier female and a stunning Pallid Harrrier (male) searched the grasslands.

 

Outside Andoni gate, we scoured the short grass for Caspian Plovers, but they were nowhere to be seen, instead we found several Temminck’s Coursers. At the artesian well outside Andoni gate a plethora of waders had gathered, mostly Ruff, Little Stint, Avocet, Wood, Marsh and Common Sandpiper as well as Greenshank.  Two good migratory omens made an appearance Steppe Buzzard and Lesser Grey Shrike raising our hopes for some more intra-african migrant flux.

 

The drive through to Shamvura Lodge in Kavango, was hot and long, we did not stopped for much as neither John or Ian handled well the heat and our prime concern was to get there in time to launch for a river cruise.  The drive was nonetheless spiced up by a stunning male of Coqui Francolin (photo right) crossing the road between Rundu and Shamvura and several Dark Chanting Goshawks perched next to the road.

 

On arrival at Shamvura Mark summoned us on to the deck were he had his scope trained on a small drying pool festering with Barbel (Catfish) and duly attended by hordes of Marabou, Openbilled, Woollynecked and a few Abdim Storks.  From the tree-top chalet we scored Pale Flycatcher, Lesser Honeyguide, Violet backed Starling and Common Bulbul.

 

After a welcome rest to take the bite off the heat we embarked on a short cruise down the Kavango river and were soon rewarded with grand views of breeding African Skimmers, Rufous bellied, Squacco, Green backed and Great White Herons. Pied and Malachite Kingfishers were seen hanging over the waters edge.  Collared Pratincoles rested in the sand banks and Little bee-eaters sallied over the water as we made our way downstream. At the colony, hundreds of Carmine Bee-eaters glided above us in sunset light. The first pair of African Fish Eagles made an appearance, followed by a single Wahlberg’s Eagle. A lonely African Marsh Harrier capped a harrier hatrick for the day.

 

As the light dimmed off scores of Mourning Doves glided down to the rivers edge for a drink, and Copperytailed Coucals perched precariously on flimsy Phragmite, bubbled  away at almost unison. 

 

As we drifted silently along the bank, the peace was disturbed by a brief glimpse of a gliding Marsh Owl, this unleashed such an almighty urge to reach the nearest sand bank, that it would have made D-day look like a beach pic-nic. Gathering energies from where there were none, John, Ian and myself flew across the grassy plain towards where the Owl had landed. We inched our way closer to the spot with baited breath until a stunning Marsh Owl flushed up a few meters ahead of us gliding gently around us and offering smashing views plus an end to John’s long dark dipping history with this species.

 

Elated we returned to the boat ( and more beers were had!!) and enjoyed further good views Southern Brown-throated and Village Weaver, African Stonechat, Tawny flanked Prinia, a colony of Brown throated Martins, calling Swamp Nightjars and Square-tailed Nightjars hawking over the river.

 

A short night drive after supper, along the dirt tracks that fringe the river, produced Fiery necked Nightjar, Scops Owl, several Lesser Bushbabies, a ghostly, yet most welcome Bronze winged Courser, a potential European Nightjar that did not sit long enough and two African Wild Cats.

 

October 25th : We started our day having breakfast on the deck overlooking the Kavango river hoping to see Greyheaded Parrots, but these were earlier than expected, overflying the deck  at least one hour earlier than scheduled. Their distinct chitter-chaterr squeaks were heard a few times coming from some distant fruiting figs but no tickable views were obtained this morning. Instead we had eye level cracking views of Meyer’s Parrots throughout the morning

 

Leaving Shamvura we were confronted with one of the most terrifying scenes I have ever witnessed in Africa. What seemed a distant Redbilled Quelea flock or fine spray of yellow particles one second, became an overwhelming swarm of locusts making their way back to Angola.  In seconds our car was engulfed by flying, crawling, crashing locusts swirling in all directions. For a few seconds they were everywhere filling the horizon, oozing out of the woodland, crawling over the road and verges etc…I think we all realised we had never truly understood the true meaning and significance of this classic African epidemic .

 

Once recovered and somewhat exhilarated by the experience, we headed into some prime woodland blocks along the main tarr road where we racked a healthy number of specials namely Ayre’s Hawk Eagle, Stierlings Barred Warbler, Tinkling Cisticola, Yellow White-eye, Arnot’s Chat (photo right) and the elusive Rufous-bellied Tit. The latter two species feeding young. Other welcome species for the morning included Blackheaded and African Golden Orioles, Green Woodhoopoe, Kurrichane Thrush, S. Black Flycatcher, White Helmetshrike, Chinspot Batis, Redheaded Weaver and Yellowthroated Petronia.

 

Lunch was followed by a siesta and in the afternoon we drifted back into the river and leisurely soaked up an active Southern carmine Bee-eater colony, latched on to several Grey rumped Swallows and Banded Martins within dense flocks of Brown throated Martins. We were teased by the calls of Streakybreasted Fluftails emanating from flooded grassy banks, but these were not responsive at all.  Swamp Boubou were easily teased in and whilst fishing next to a heronry we added Great White and Yellowbilled Egret to the list as well as Black heron. We also spished out a Luapula Cisticola and an accompanying entourage of Golden Weavers. Sunset was most enjoyable as a flock of White winged and Whiskered Terns, countless Rock Pratincoles, overflying Hamerkops, Steppe Eagles and 17 Skimmers flew at quasi unison across a bloodshot Kavango sky.

 

October 26th : A second, and earlier attempt at clenching Greyheaded Parrots was more successful today, with a flock of six birds, flying overhead and landing nearby at a fruiting fig tree, with a later view of the whole flock cruising towards Angola and socialising atop a dead snag. Breakfast at the verandah was shared with a number of very confiding species such as Blackcollared Barbet, Arrowmarked Babbler, Yellowbellied Greenbul (photo left) and Gabar Goshawk.

En route to Mahango GR a quick incursion into some mature woodland produced the  a flock of White Helmetshrikes, African Hoopoe and a superb Racket-tailed Roller in top notch condition. At Divundu we clocked in Lesser Striped Swallow.

 

A short walk in Popa Falls during the heat of the day got us grand views of a fishing Giant Kingfisher, perched flocks of Meve’s Longtailed Starling, several noisy gaggles of Hartlaub’s Babbler, Terrestrial Bulbul, White browed Robin Chat and Wire tailed Swallow near the waters edge.

 

After lunch we ventured into the sandy tracks of Babwata NP, on arrival we struck it lucky with a Lizard Buzard perched next to the road, a young Martial eagle soaring above, Gabar Goshawk at Buffalo camp and Gymnogene as well as African Goshawk next to the floodplain.  A few meters beyond the entrance gate a flock of Retz’s Helmetshrikes slowed down by a few youngsters allowing soaking views of this superb bird. A pair of Mosque Swallows whirled in the proximity of a Baobab. Some distance away from the road we spotted our first of the trip and final Roller species of the list, Broadbilled Roller.

 

Walking through the dilapidated barracks of Buffalo Camp we scored Goldentailed Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Yellowbreasted Apalis, Icterine Warbler and loads of Greater Blue eared Starlings. Several Swainson’s and Crested Francolins scuttled across the road ahead of us as we sailed through deep sands down to the floodplain.  Heavy Cape Buffalo traffic was evident on the tracks so we crept silently beyond the bushes and sat at the floodplains edge, in front of us an impressive 350 strong herd of Cape Buffalo grazed placidly. A large flock of mixed Yellowbilled (photo left) and Redbilled Oxpeckers serviced the herd. Large numbers of Jacanas flushed from the flooded grasses as the herd moved, and amongst them we spotted several Longtoed Plovers doing the same.

 

Birding the wooded banks offered superb commanding views over a myriad of flooded plains where we had great views of Saddlebilled and Yellowbilled Storks, African Spoonbill, Goliath Heron, Spur winged Goose, Whitefaced Ducks, Black Kite and a Lesser Spotted Eagle. 

 

A few meters down the road, a group of three Wattled Cranes, 2 ads and one chick, stood regally a few meters away from us. In the distance another pair waltzed and jumped across the floodplain near the track…so we pushed ahead.

 

BUT!! a few yards ahead a wrong turn got us awefully stuck in the sand.  Thirty minutes of digging and pushing, and some assistance from the local ranger, had us on the go once again and heading out of the park in haste as we were already late for the gate. Whilst digging ourselves out, we were inquisitively ogled by a magnificent Sable Antelope coming down to drink.

 

As we cruised out of the park our luck was challenged again… ahead of us a massive herd of Elephants approached the water, with no way to tell how many had reached the waters edge and how many were still coming down across the track, stopping in deep sands and getting stuck again amidst a herd of Ellies at dusk, somehow did not feel right. Neither did driving through through the herd…in retrospect, but that is what we did.  We took our chances and pushed on and as we drove past them spread ears, raised trunks and massive bottoms appeared everywhere but they were as surprised as we were and possibly ensured us safe passage.

 

On our way out we spotlighted a few Fiery necked and Rufous cheeked Nightjars to cap the day, and back at camp we called in a very obliging pair of Wood Owls.

October 27th : We started the day in Mahango GR, where the first lifer of the day was a group of Magpie Shrikes (photo right).  A Black Cuckoo and its mournful call, had us entertained for a while but could only catch fleeting views of the bird before it went silent and disappeared. Brown Firefinches were thick on the ground wherever we traipsed.

 

Scanning the floodplains got us the main quarry of the day two Slaty Egrets foraging next to the chanel. In the floodplains we picked up Sacred Ibis a new bird for the trip.

 

At Kwetche a magnificent bloom of waterlilies harboured several Pigmy Geese.  A long walk along the main channel yielded Bradfield’s Hornbill, Bennett’s Woodpecker, Crested Barbet, Ashy Flycatcher, Cape White Eye, Plain backed Pipit and Willow Warbler.

 

As we met more and more Borassus palms the habitat became increasingly suitable for Collared Palm Thrush, a species rarely recorded in Namibia, but which has been sighted in Mahango in the late 80s. It was worth a try….and it only took one brief burst…to pick up the excited trills of a nearby male.  Not believing what was happening we hoaned on the source and after another short burst a stunning male Collared Palm Thrush popped out of the palm fronds and stared at us with its creamy white eyes and soft reddish and cream tones. Elation and overwhelming excitement got hold of us, since to my knowledge, this bird has never been reported on tour by anyone else, ever, before !!!

 

As soon as we got back to Kwetche we drove across the border to Shakawe, where after being received with a few beers and settling into our rooms at Shakawe Fishing Lodge we took a leisurely walk upstream.  No sooner had we entered the forest we bumped into a perched Western Banded Snake Eagle which was very reluctant to leave and allowed for long and lovely views from below. Another welcome species was Narina Trogon which came like a shot after hooting back at it. Other species enjoyed during the walk included Greater Swamp Warbler, Fantailed Widowbird, Grey Go-away birds attending mineral lick and Whitefronted Bee-eater.

The moment of truth had arrived for both Ian and John, and as dusk settled in we left camp upstream in search of the MOST WANTED species of the trip, the epic Pel’s Fishing Owl (photo left).

Soon after reaching the backwaters of a nearby lagoon, Barry our host picked up the dim reflection of the birds eye. Perched on a low branch near the forests edge, the majestic ginger Owl stared down at us, whilst we took in the spectacle and contained a rush of emotion. On our way back to camp we came across a female Sitatunga feeding at the  Papyrus edge. A brief scan along the banks and flooded plains next to the lodge produced an Adult and young White-backed Night heron. With the Shakawe nocturnal hat-trick completed we returned to the lodge and feasted on Elaine’s scrumptious pan fried Tilapia.

 

October 28th : An early morning walk to the back of Shakawe fishing lodge where the riparian forest meets dense low scrub could not have started better, with hawking Broadbilled Rollers above our heads, watery calls of African Green Pigeons (photo below right), and another Narina Trogon perched next to the entrance road.  A few whistled monotonous notes brought in a very obliging and curious Yellowfronted Tinkerbird.  A brief reply to a nearby calling Redchested Cuckoo lured it in and we all had good views as it flew in front of us. Crested Francolins were also called in.  Likewise a couple of Orangebreasted Bushshrikes approached Christian’s whistlings, allowing for superb views of this stunning shrike. Another two welcome additions to the trip list were Woodland Kingfisher, which had just started calling for the season and a darting Little Sparrowhawk.

 

The verges of the road were thick with seedeaters, namely Redbilled and Brown Firefinches the obligatory Village Indogobirds as well as Goldenbreasted Buntings and Melba Finches.

At one bird party that had been lingering for a while reluctant to move, we played for African Barred Owlet with the intention to bring out any other species we might have missed, but what came out was the Owlet itself, which allowed for long juicy scope views.

 

But the feast was not over yet, whilst watching a Jacobin Cuckoo feed in the canopy, Christian called out for a small raptor in the same canopy, but the glimpse he saw turned out to be the under tail barrings of a Thickbilled Cuckoo, as the bird perched out in full view of the whole group and was well studied during the minutes that followed.  This record turned out to be the fourth record ever for Botswana and the second one recorded at  Shakawe.

 

In the afternoon we took a cruise downstream to a spot along the Karatoga channel, where Elaine had been monitoring an unusual heronry, unusual in as much as it was the first she had ever seen in the area.  Large numbers of Openbill Storks, Squacco Herons, Yellowbilled and Cattle Egret, Blackcrowned Night Herons and Little Egrets took off as we slipped past the Papyrus section.  Further downstream we came across a flock of Black Egrets that were sharing their bounty with a pair Slaty Egrets allowing for unequalled comparative views of this two stunning species. Comb Ducks, Whitefaced Ducks and flocks of African Jacanas watched us glide past.

 

A number of stops along the main channel wherever we heard bird calling produced excellent views of Luapula and Chirping Cisticola, Greater Swamp, Little Rush and Cape Reed Warbler.

 

Before calling it a day, we ventured back into the water and tested our luck a second time with the fishing owl….we were luck again and this time had longer prolonged and closer looks of this magnificent owl.

 

October 29th : The day started with a pre-breakfast walk along the riparian forest by now we had seem mostly everything the forest had to offer so concentrated on getting better views of certain species, namely Black cuckoo which eventually was enjoyed perched in the open above us. No luck finding a roosting Pel’s but Iain was most chuffed to find one of its jammy orange primaries, in top condition. Nonetheless, we were quite content to finish our walk with a roosting Bat Hawk.  We rejoiced watching the traffic of a nearby Carmine Bee-eater, had glimpses of a Wahlberg’s eagle soaring above the canopy and enjoyed the traffic of Grey-go away birds coming back and forth to the lick below Shakawe camp…a rare and fascinating behaviour poorly described among Turacos.

 

Soon after breakfast we headed out for Shamvura, birding through Mahango we notched again a few specials namely Wattled Crane, Slaty Egret, Saddlebilled Stork (photo left) and an awesome family of Sable Antelope leaving the waters edge.

 

Driving back to Shamvura we came across a fresh carcass of a male Pennantwinged Nightjar, its female lying dead nearby. We marked the spot to return later at night.

At Shamvura we took a leisurely walk around the property and notched a few more species such as Spectacled Weaver, Blackcrowned Tchagra and fleeting views of a Jameson’s Firefinch.

 

The night drive was very successful, with several Fierynecked and Rufouscheeked Nightjars, one very possible yet unconfirmed Eurasian Nightjar. We eventually reached the dead Pennantwinged Nightjar spot, but nothing responded to our playback, we returned via a nearby sandy track and although we were not lucky enough to clock the male we were blessed with a female Pennantwinged Nightjar to cap the night.

 

 

October 30th : The day started at the deck were Charlie and Linda had laid out a scrumptious breakfast. We were briefly joined by a flock of three Grey headed Parrots that flew over heading for Angola, a young Black Sparrowhawk called incessantly from its nest below the deck, a Black Cuckoo also paid its respects as did a frantic Diederick’s Cuckoo.

 

Soon after greeting goodbye Marc, Charlie and Linda we stumbled upon a foraging Levaillant’s Cuckoo before the gate.

 

We stopped briefly at the Rundu Sewage Works, but not much was happening in the manner of bird activity and being a weekend it was full of people fishing, it felt a bit unsafe so we decided to cut the visit short, yet still managed to score Great Crested Grebe and the first arrivals of Blue cheeked Bee-eater.

 

The drive to Waterberg NP was uneventful and longish as always, but we managed to spice it up with cracking views of a Blackfaced Babbler on the nest at Roy’s camp and a roosting Spotted Eagle Owl near a fence gate along the Okakarara shortcut road.

 

October 31st : Todays aim was merely to get back to Windhoek in time for Johns and Ians flight back to JHB, but just as we thought it was all over we still managed to strike one more for the list…a Brown Snake Eagle soaring above the City of Windhoek.

 

The trip list was closed at 410 species, having cleaned up on all targeted endemics and specials and with roughly 30 more species than expected given this time of the year and the fact that intra African-migrants and Palearctic migrants were busy coming in, but by no means had arrived yet. Nevertheless the trip exceeded expectations, and the main ingredients for its success resides on the fact we had the latitude and freedom to rearrange plans at will as the trip list grew and Iain and John rose beyond their healthy and harmless greed…this helped enormously to streamline our chase, but the fact we all got on so extremely well was key to making it unforgettable.

 

John and Iain left on time, and with a promise to consider a joint birding trip to Tanzania in the not so far future…a trip I am already looking forward to spend with my newly acquired

Scottish mates.

 

Species Checklist.

The nomenclature and taxonomy followed here is according to Sinclair & Ryan’s Bird’s of Africa – south of the Sahara. 2003.

 

         Roberts VII                               Scientific Name

1         Common Ostrich                                         Struthio camelus

2         Great Crested Grebe                                    Podiceps cristatus

3         Black-necked Grebe                                     Podiceps nigricollis

4         Little Grebe (Dabchick)                               Tachybaptus ruficollis

5         White-chinned Petrel                                   Procellaria aequinoctialis

6         Great White Pelican                                     Pelecanus rufescens

7         Cape Gannet                                                Morus capensis

8         White-breasted Cormorant                          Phalacrocorax onocrotalus

9         Cape Cormorant                                          Phalacrocorax capensis

10       Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant                     Phalacrocorax africanus

11       Crowned Cormorant                                    Phalacrocorax coronatus

12       African Darter                                             Anhinga rufa

13       Grey Heron                                                 Ardea cinerea

14       Black-headed Heron                                    Ardea melanocephala

15       Goliath Heron                                              Ardea goliath

16       Purple Heron                                               Ardea purpurea

17       Great Egret                                                  Casmerodius albus

18       Little Egret                                                   Egretta garzetta

19       Yellow-billed (Intermediate) Egret              Mesophoyx intermedia

20       Cattle Egret                                                  Bubulcus ibis

21       Black Heron                                                 Egretta ardesiaca

22       Slaty Egret                                                   Egretta vinaceigula

23       Squacco Heron                                             Ardeola ralloides

24       Green-backed Heron                                    Butorides striatus

25       Rufous-bellied Heron                                  Ardeola rufiventris

26       White-backed Night-Heron                         Gorsachius leuconotus

27       Black-crowned Night Heron                        Nycticorax nycticorax

28       Little Bittern                                                Ixobrychus minutus

29       Hamerkop                                                    Scopus umbretta

30       Woolly-necked Stork                                   Ciconia episcopus

31       African Openbill                                          Anastomus lamelligerus

32       Marabou Stork                                            Leptoptilos crumeniferus

33       Saddle-billed Stork                                       senegalensis

34       Yellow-billed Stork                                      Mycteria ibis

35       Sacred Ibis                                                   Threskiornis aethiopicus

36       Hadeda Ibis                                                  Bostrychia hagedash

37       African Spoonbill                                        Platalea alba

38       Greater Flamingo                                         Phoenicopterus ruber

39       Lesser Flamingo                                           Phoenicopterus minor

40       White-faced Duck                                        Dendrocygna viduata

41       Egyptian Goose                                           Alopochen aegyptiacus

42       South African Shelduck                               Tadorna cana

43       African Black Duck                                     Anas sparsa

44       Cape Teal                                                    Anas capensis

45       Hottentot Teal                                             Anas hottentota

46       Red-billed Teal                                            Anas erythrorhyncha

47       Cape Shoveller                                             Anas smithii

48       Southern Pochard                                        Netta erythrophthalma

49       African Pygmy Goose                                 Nettapus auritus

50       Knob-billed Duck                                        Sarkidiornis melanotos

51       Spur-winged Goose                                     Plectropterus gambensis

52       Secretarybird                                               Sagittarius serpentarius

53       African White-backed Vulture                     Gyps africanus

54       Lappet-faced Vulture                                  Torgos tracheliotos

55       White-headed Vulture                                  Trigonoceps occipitalis

56       Yellow-billed Kite                                       Milvus parasitus

57       Black Kite                                                    Milvus migrans

58       Black-shouldered Kite                                 Elanus caeruleus

59       Bat Hawk                                                    Macheiramphus alcinus

60       Verreaux's (Black) Eagle                              Aquila verreauxii

61       Tawny Eagle                                                Aquila rapax

62       Steppe Eagle                                                Aquila nipalensis

63       Lesser Spotted Eagle                                   Aquila pomarina

64       Wahlberg's Eagle                                          Aquila wahlbergi

65       Booted Eagle                                                Hieraaetus pennatus

66       African Hawk Eagle                                     Hieraaetus spilogaster

67       Ayres Hawk-Eagle                                      Aquila ayresii

68       Martial Eagle                                               Polemaetus bellicosus

69       Black-breasted Snake-Eagle                         Circaetus pectoralis

70       Western Banded Snake-Eagle                      Circaetus cinerascens

71       Bateleur                                                       Terathopius ecaudatus

72       African Fish Eagle                                       Haliaeetus vocifer

73       Common (Steppe) Buzzard                        Buteo buteo

74       Augur Buzzard                                            Buteo augur

75       Lizard Buzzard                                            Kaupifalco monogrammicus

76       Little Sparrowhawk                                     Accipiter minullus

77       Shikra (Little Banded Goshawk)                 Accipiter badius

78       African Goshawk                                        Accipiter tachiro

79       Gabar Goshawk                                           Micronisus gabar

80       Pale Chanting Goshawk                              Melierax canorus

81       Dark Chanting Goshawk                             Melierax metabates

82       Pallid Harrier                                               Circus macrourus

83       African Marsh Harrier                                 Circus ranivorus

84       Montagu's Harrier                                       Circus pygargus

85       Gymnogene (African Harrier Hawk)           Polyboroides typus

86       Peregrine Falcon                                          Falco peregrinus

87       Lanner Falcon                                              Falco biarmicus

88       Red-footed Falcon                                       Falco vespertinus

89       Rock Kestrel                                                Falco tinnunculus

90       Greater Kestrel                                            Falco rupicoloides

91       African Pygmy Falcon                                Polihierax semitorquatus

92       Coqui Francolin                                           Francolinus coqui

93       Crested Francolin                                        Francolinus sephaena

94       Orange River Francolin                                Francolinus levaillantoides

95       Red-billed Spurfowl                                    Pternistes adspersus

96       Hartlaub's Spurfowl                                  Pternistes hartlaubi

97       Swainson's Francolin                                   Francolinus swainsonii

98       Helmeted Guineafowl                                  Numida meleagris

99       Blue Crane                                                   Anthropoides paradiseus

100     Wattled Crane                                              Grus carunculatus

101     Black Crake                                                 Amaurornis flavirostris

102     Purple Gallinule                                           Porphyrio porphyrio

103     Common Moorhen                                      Gallinula chloropus

104     Red-knobbed Coot                                      Fulica cristata

105     Kori Bustard                                                Ardeotis kori

106     Ludwig's Bustard                                         Neotis ludwigii

107     Ruppell's Korhaan                                       Eupodotis rueppellii

108     Red Crested Korhaan                                  Eupodotis ruficrista

109     Northern Black Korhaan                             Eupodotis afraoides

110     African Jacana                                             Actophilornis africanus

111     African Black Oystercatcher                       Haematopus moquini

112     Common Ringed Plover                               Charadrius hiaticula

113     White-fronted Plover                                   Charadrius marginatus

114     Chestnut-banded Plover                              Charadrius pallidus

115     Kittlitz's Plover                                           Charadrius pecuarius

116     Three-banded Plover                                   Charadrius tricollaris

117     Grey (Black-bellied) Plover                         Pluvialis squatarola

118     Crowned Plover                                           Vanellus coronatus

119     Blacksmith Plover                                       Vanellus armatus

120     Long-toed Lapwing                                     Vanellus crassirostris

121     Wattled Plover                                             Vanellus senegallus

122     Ruddy Turnstone                                        Arenaria interpres

123     Common Sandpiper                                     Tringa hypoleucos

124     Marsh Sandpiper                                         Tringa stagnatilis

125     Common Greenshank                                  Tringa nebularia

126     Red Knot                                                     Calidris canutus

127     Curlew Sandpiper                                        Calidris ferruginea

128     Little Stint                                                   Calidris minuta

129     Sanderling                                                    Calidris alba

130     Ruff                                                             Philomachus pugnax

131     Bar-tailed Godwit                                        Limosa lapponica

132     Whimbrel                                                     Numenius phaeopus

133     Red-necked Phalarope                                 Phalaropus lobatus

134     Pied Avocet                                                 Recurvirostra avosetta

135     Black-winged Stilt                                       Himantopus himantopus

136     Spotted Dikkop (Thick-knee)                     Burhinus capensis

137     Water Dikkop (Thick-knee)                        Burhinus vermiculatus

138     Burchell's Courser                                       Cursorius rufus

139     Temminck's Courser                                    Cursorius temminckii

140     Double Banded Courser                              Rhinoptilus africanus

141     Bronze-winged Courser                               Rhinoptilus chalcopterus

142     Collared Pratincole                                      Glareola pratincola

143     Black-winged Pratincole                              Glareola nordmanni

144     Rock Practicole                                            Glareola nuchalis

145     Parasitic Jaeger                                            Stercorarius parasiticus

146     Kelp Gull                                                     Larus dominicanus

147     Grey-headed Gull                                        Larus cirrocephalus

148     Hartlaub's Gull                                            Larus hartlaubii

149     Caspian Tern                                               Sterna caspia

150     Swift (Greater Crested) Tern                      Sterna bergii

151     Sandwich Tern                                             Sterna sandvicensis

152     Common Tern                                             Sterna hirundo

153     Damara Tern                                                Sterna balaenarum

154     Whiskered Tern                                           Chlidonias hybridus

155     African Skimmer                                          Rynchops flavirosstris

156     White-winged Tern                                      Chlidonias leucopterus

157     Namaqua Sandgrouse                                   Pterocles namaqua

158     Burchell's Sandgrouse                                  Pterocles burchelli

159     Double-banded Sandgrouse                         Pterocles bicinctus

160     Feral (Rock) Pigeon                                     Columba livia

161     Speckled Pigeon                                           Columba guinea

162     African Mourning Dove                              Streptopelia decipiens

163     Red-eyed Dove                                            Streptopelia semitorquata

164     Cape Turtle Dove                                        Streptopelia capicola

165     Laughing (Palm) Dove                                 Streptopelia senegalensis

166     Namaqua Dove                                            Oena capensis

167     Emerald-spotted Dove                                Turtur chalcospilos

168     African Green Pigeon                                  Treron calva

169     Grey-headed Parrot                                     Poicephalus suahelicus

170     Meyer's Parrot                                            Poicephalus meyeri

171     Ruppell's Parrot                                          Poicephalus rueppellii

172     Rose-ringed Parakeet                                   Psittacula roseicollis

173     Grey Lourie (Go-away Bird)                      Corythaixoides concolor

174     African Cuckoo                                           Cuculus gularis

175     Red-chested Cuckoo                                    Cuculus solitarius

176     Black Cuckoo                                              Cuculus clamosus

177     Thick-billed Cuckoo                                    Pachycoccyx audeberti

178     Levaillant's (Striped) Cuckoo                      Oxylophus levaillantii

179     Jacobin Cuckoo                                           Oxylophus jacobinus

180     Diederik Cuckoo                                          Chrysococcyx caprius

181     Coppery-tailed Coucal                                Centropus cupreicaudus

182     Barn Owl                                                     Tyto alba

183     African Wood Owl                                      Strix woodfordii

184     Marsh Owl                                                  Asio capensis

185     African Scops Owl                                      Otus leucotis

186     Pearl-spotted Owlet                                    Glaucidium perlatum

187     African Barred Owlet                                  Glaucidium capense

188     Spotted Eagle Owl                                       Bubo africanus

189     Verreaux's Eagle-Owl                                   Bubo lacteus

190     Pel's Fishing-Owl                                        Scotopelia peli

191     Fiery-necked Nightjar                                  Caprimulgus pectoralis

192     Rufous-cheeked Nightjar                             Caprimulgus rufigena

193     Swamp Nightjar                                           Caprimulgus tristigma

194     Square-tailed Nightjar                                  Caprimulgus fossii

195     Pennant-winged Nightjar                             Macrodipteryx vexillarius

196     African Black Swift                                     Apus barbatus

197     White-rumped Swift                                    Apus caffer

198     Bradfield's Swift                                          Apus bradfieldi

199     Little Swift                                                  Apus affinis

200     Alpine Swift                                                Tachymarptis melba

201     African Palm Swift                                      Cypsiurus parvus

202     Speckled Mousebird                                    Colius striatus

203     White-backed Mousebird                            Colius colius

204     Red-faced Mousebird                                  Urocolius indicus

205     Narina Trogon                                             Apaloderma narina

206     Pied Kingfisher                                            Ceryle rudis

207     Giant Kingfisher                                          Megaceryle maxima

208     Malachite Kingfisher                                   Alcedo cristata

209     Woodland Kingfisher                                   Halcyon senegalensis

210     European Bee-eater                                     Merops apiaster

211     Blue-cheeked Bee-eater                               Merops persicus

212     Southern Carmine Bee-eater                        Merops nubicoides

213     White-fronted Bee-eater                              Merops bullockoides

214     Little Bee-eater                                            Merops pusillus

215     Swallow-tailed Bee-eater                             Merops pusillus

216     Lilac-breasted Roller                                    Coracias caudata

217     Purple (Rufous-crowned) Roller                 Coracias naevia

218     Racket-tailed Roller                                     Coracias spatulata

219     Broad-billed Roller                                      Eurystomus glaucurus

220     African Hoopoe                                           Upupa africana

221     Red-billed (Green) Wood-hoopoe               Phoeniculus purpureus

222     Violet Woodhoopoe                                    Phoeniculus damarensis

223     Common Scimitarbill                                   Rhinopomastus cyanomelas

224     African Grey Hornbill                                 Tockus nasutus

225     Red-billed Hornbill                                      Tockus erythrorhynchus

226     Damara Hornbill                                          Tockus damarensis

227     Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill                  Tockus leucomelas

228     Bradfield's Hornbill                                     Tockus bradfieldi

229     Monteiro's Hornbill                                     Tockus monteiri

230     Black-collared Barbet                                  Lybius torquatus

231     Pied Barbet                                                  Tricholaema leucomelas

232     Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird                          Pogoniulus chrysoconus

233     Crested Barbet                                             Trachyphonus vaillantii

234     Lesser Honeyguide                                      Indicator minor

235     Golden-tailed Woodpecker                          Campethera abingoni

236     Bennett's Woodpecker                                Campethera bennettii

237     Bearded Woodpecker                                  Dendropicos namaquus

238     Cardinal Woodpecker                                  Dendropicos fuscescens

239     Flappet Lark                                                Mirafra rufocinnamomea

240     Fawn-coloured Lark                                    Calendulauda africanoides

241     Sabota Lark                                                  Mirafra sabota

242     Eastern Clapper Lark                                  Mirafra fasciolata

243     Karoo Long-billed Lark                               Certhilauda subcoronata

244     Benguela Long-billed Lark                           Certhilauda benguelensis

245     Spike-heeled Lark                                        Chersomanes albofasciata

246     Red-capped Lark                                         Calandrella cinerea

247     Pink-billed Lark                                           Spizocorys conirostris

248     Dune Lark                                                    Certhilauda erythrochlamys

249     Stark's Lark                                                  Eremalauda starki

250     Gray's Lark                                                  Ammomanes grayi

251     Grey-backed Finch-lark                               Eremopterix verticalis

252     Barn (European) Swallow                           Hirundo rustica

253     White-throated Swallow                              Hirundo albigularis

254     Wire-tailed Swallow                                    Hirundo smithii

255     Pearl-breasted Swallow                               Hirundo dimidiata

256     Red-breasted Swallow                                 Hirundo senegalensis

257     Mosque Swallow                                         Hirundo senegalensis

258     Greater Striped Swallow                             Hirundo cucullata

259     Lesser Striped Swallow                               Hirundo abyssinica

260     South African Cliff Swallow                       Hirundo spilodera

261     Rock Martin                                                Hirundo fuligula

262     Grey-rumped Swallow                                Hirundo griseopyga

263     Brown-throated (Plain) Martin                   Riparia paludicola

264     Banded Martin                                            Riparia cincta

265     Fork-tailed Drongo                                      Dicrurus adsimilis

266     African Golden Oriole                                 Oriolus auratus

267     Eastern Black-headed Oriole                       Oriolus larvatus

268     Black (Cape) Crow                                      Corvus capensis

269     Pied Crow                                                    Corvus albus

270     Southern Grey Tit                                       Parus afer

271     Ashy Tit                                                      Parus cinerascens

272     Rufous-bellied Tit                                       Parus rufiventris

273     Southern Black Tit                                      Parus niger

274     Carp's Black Tit                                          Parus carpi

275     Cape Penduline Tit                                      Anthoscopus minutus

276     Arrow-marked Babbler                                Turdoides jardineii

277     Black-faced Babbler                                     Turdoides melanops

278     Hartlaub's Babbler                                       Turdoides hartlaubii

279     Southern Pied Babbler                                 Turdoides bicolor

280     Bare-cheeked Babbler                                  Turdoides gymnogenys

281     African Red-eyed Bulbul                             Pycnonotus nigricans

282     Black-eyed (Common) Bulbul                     Pycnonotus barbatus

283     Terrestrial Brownbul                                   Phyllastrephus terrestris

284     Yellow-bellied Greenbul                              Chlorocichla flaviventris

285     Kurrichane Thrush                                      Turdus libonyanus

286     Groundscraper Thrush                                Psophocichla litsitsirupa

287     Short-toed Rock Thrush                              Monticola brevipes

288     Mountain Chat                                            Oenanthe monticola

289     Capped Wheatear                                        Oenanthe pileata

290     Familiar Chat                                               Cercomela familiaris

291     Tractrac Chat                                               Cercomela tractrac

292     Karoo Chat                                                  Cercomela schlegelii

293     Arnot's Chat                                                Myrmecocichla arnotti

294     Southern Anteating Chat                             Myrmecocichla formicivora

295     Common Stonechat                                     Saxicola torquata

296     White-throated Robin-chat                          Cossypha humeralis

297     White-browed Scrub-robin                          Cercotrichas leucophrys

298     Kalahari Scrub Robin                                   Cercotrichas paena

299     Herero Chat                                                 Namibornis herero

300     Karoo Scrub-robin                                       Cercotrichas coryphaeus

301     Collared Palm-Thrush                                 Cichladusa arquata

302     Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler                       Parisoma subcaeruleum

303     Layard's Tit-babbler                                    Parisoma layardi

304     Icterine Warbler                                           Hippolais icterina

305     African Marsh (Reed) Warbler                    Acrocephalus baeticatus

306     Greater-Swamp Warbler                              Acrocephalus rufescens

307     Cape Reed Warbler                                      Acrocephalus gracilirostris

308     Willow Warbler                                           Phylloscopus trochilus

309     Yellow-breasted Apalis                               Apalis flavida

310     Long-billed Crombec                                   Sylvietta rufescens

311     Yellow-bellied Eremomela                           Eremomela icteropygialis

312     Burnt-necked Eremomela                            Eremomela usticollis

313     Grey-backed Camaroptera                          Camaroptera brevicaudata

314     Barred Wren Warbler                                   Calamonastes fasciolatus

315     Stierling's Wren-Warbler                              Calamonastes stierlingi

316     Rockrunner                                                  Achaetops pycnopygius

317     Fan-tailed (Zitting) Cisticola                       Cisticola juncidis

318     Desert Cisticola                                           Cisticola aridulus

319     Luapula Cisticola                                         Cisticola luapula

320     Chirping Cisticola                                        Cisticola pipiens

321     Tinkling Cisticola                                        Cisticola rufilatus

322     Grey-backed Cisticola                                 Cisticola subruficapillus

323     Rattling Cisticola                                         Cisticola chinianus

324     Croaking Cisticola                                       Cisticola natalensis

325     Tawny-flanked Prinia                                  Prinia subflava

326     Black-chested Prinia                                    Prinia flavicans

327     Rufous-eared Warbler                                  Malcorus pectoralis

328     Spotted Flycatcher                                      Muscicapa striata

329     Ashy Flycatcher                                          Muscicapa caerulescens

330     Southern Black Flycatcher                          Melaenornis pammelaina

331     Pale Flycatcher (Pallid Flycatcher)             Bradornis pallidus

332     Marico Flycatcher                                       Bradornis mariquensis

333     Chat Flycatcher                                           Bradornis infuscatus

334     Chinspot Batis                                            Batis molitor

335     Pririt Batis                                                   Batis pririt

336     African Paradise Flycatcher                        Terpsiphone viridis

337     African Pied Wagtail                                    Motacilla aguimp

338     Cape Wagtail                                               Motacilla capensis

339     African Pipit (Grassveld Pipit)                   Anthus cinnamomeus

340     Long-billed Pipit                                          Anthus similis

341     Buffy Pipit                                                  Anthus vaalensis

342     Plain-backed Pipit                                       Anthus leucophrys

343     Lesser Grey Shrike                                      Lanius minor

344     Common Fiscal                                            Lanius collaris

345     Magpie Shrike (Long-tailed Shrike)             Corvinella melanoleuca

346     Swamp Boubou                                           Laniarius bicolor

347     Crimson-breasted Shrike                             Laniarius atrococcineus

348     Black-backed Puffback                                Dryoscopus cubla

349     Brubru                                                         Nilaus afer

350     Black-crowned Tchagra                               Tchagra australis

351     Bokmakierie                                                 Telophorus zeylonus

352     Orange-breasted Bush Shrike                      Telophorus sulfureopectus

353     White Helmetshrike                                     Prionops plumatus

354     Retz's Helmetshrike                                    Prionops retzii

355     White-tailed Shrike                                      Lanioturdus torquatus

356     Southern White -crowned Shrike                 Eurocephalus anguitimens

357     Wattled Starling                                           Creatophora cinerea

358     Plum-coloured Starling                                Cinnyricinclus leucogaster

359     Cape Glossy Starling                                   Lamprotornis nitens

360     Pale-winged Starling                                    Onychognathus nabouroup

361     Meve's Starling                                            Lamprotornis mevesii

362     Sharp-tailed Starling                                    Lamprotornis acuticaudus

363     Greater Blue-eared Starling                          Lamprotornis chalybaeus

364     Burchell's Starling                                        Lamprotornis australis

365     Yellow-billed Oxpecker                               Buphagus africanus

366     Red-billed Oxpecker                                    Buphagus erythrorhynchus

367     Marico Sunbird                                            Nectarinia mariquensis

368     White-bellied Sunbird                                  Nectarinia talatala

369     Dusky Sunbird                                            Nectarinia fusca

370     Scarlet-chested Sunbird                               Nectarinia senegalensis

371     Amethyst (Black) Sunbird                          Nectarinia amethystina

372     Collared Sunbird                                          Anthreptes collaris

373     Orange River White-eye                              Zosterops capensis

374     Cape White-eye                                           Zosterops virens

375     Yellow White-eye                                        Zosterops senegalensis

376     House Sparrow                                            Passer domesticus

377     Great Sparrow                                             Passer motitensis

378     Cape Sparrow                                              Passer melanurus

379     Southern Grey-headed Sparrow                  Passer diffusus

380     Yellow-throated Petronia                            Petronia superciliaris

381     Spectacled Weaver                                       Ploceus ocularis

382     Village (Spotted-backed) Weaver                Ploceus cucullatus

383     Southern Masked Weaver                           Ploceus velatus

384     Red-headed Weaver                                     Anaplectes rubriceps

385     S.Brown-throated Weaver                           Ploceus xanthopterus

386     Golden Weaver                                            Ploceus xanthops

387     Chestnut weaver                                          Ploceus rubiginosus

388     Red-billed Quelea                                        Quelea quelea

389     Scaly-feathered Finch                                  Sporopipes sqamifrons

390     Red Bishop                                                  Euplectes orix

391     Melba Finch                                                Pytilia melba

392     Jameson's Firefinch                                     Lagonosticta rhodopareia

393     Red-billed Firefinch                                     Lagonosticta senegala

394     Brown Firefinch                                          Lagonosticta nitidula

395     Blue Waxbill                                                Uraeginthus angolensis

396     Common Waxbill                                         Estrilda astrild

397     Violet-eared Waxbill                                    Uraeginthus granatina

398     Black-faced Waxbill                                     Estrilda erythronotos

399     Red-headed Finch                                        Amadina erythrocephala

400     Pin-tailed Whydah                                       Vidua macroura

401     Shaft-tailed Whydah                                    Vidua regia

402     Village Indigobird                                         Vidua chalybeata

403     Black-throated Canary                                Serinus atrogularis

404     Yellow Canary                                             Serinus flaviventris

405     White-throated Canary                                Serinus albogularis

406     Golden-breasted Bunting                             Emberiza flaviventris

407     Cape Bunting                                               Emberiza capensis

408     Cinnamon-breasted Bunting                        Emberiza tahapisi

409     Lark-like Bunting                                         Emberiza impetuani

 

Mammal Checklist.

The nomenclature and taxonomy followed here is according to Kingdon 1997.

 

Striped Mouse Rhabdomys pumilio. Several throughout the trip

Dassie Rat Petromus typicus. Abundant both at Spitzkoppe and Erongo.

Cape Fur Seal Actophilornis pusillus. Large colonies enjoyed at Walvis Bay

Heavyside Dolphin . Several pods seen whilst Kayaking in Walvis.

Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus. Several seen throughout the trip.

Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops pygerythrus. Common in Mahango GR and Shakawe (Bots).

Mountain Squirrel Xerus princeps : Several seen along the Namib escarpment.

Ground Squirrel  Xerus inauris. Ubiquitous at Etosha, Namib- Naukluft and elsewhere

Tree Squirrel  Paraxerus cepapi. Several seen at Mahango GR and riparian forests near Shakawe.

Senegal Galago Galago senegalensis. Night drives and night walks in Halali (Etosha NP) and Kavango.

Cape Hare Lepus capensis : Etosha and night drves in Kavango

Scrub Hare Lepus capensis. Fairly common throughout.

Jameson´s Red Rock Rabbit Pronolagus randensis: Two individuals in granite outcrops in Omaruru.

Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas. Common throughout.

Cape Fox Vulpes chacma : One small unit at Etosha NP.

Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis. Three in the early morning near Spitzkoppe.

Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta. Etosha NP.

Common Genet Genetta genetta. Night drives and night walks in Kavago and Halali camp, in Etosha NP.

Lion Panthera leo. Several prides seen extremely well at Etosha NP.

African Wild Cat Felis sylvestris: Night drives at Epako (Omaruru) and hunting at waerholes in Etosha NP

Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis.Several colonies along the Namib escarpment.

Elephant Loxodonta africana –Good views at Etosha NP.

Giraffe Camelopardus giraffa. Etosha NP.

Zebra Equus burchelli - Common in Etosha NP.

Hartmaan´s Zebra Equus hartmaani – Several herds seen along the Namib escarpment

Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibious – Many seen along the Kavango river.

White Rhino Ceratotherium simus: A few individuals seen at Epako Lodge (Omaruru).

Black Rhino Diceros bicornis: Every day sightings whilst at Etosha NP.

Warthog Phacochoerus africanus - Common in N. Parks.

Buffalo Syncerus caffer – Lage herds at Mahango and Babwata NP.

Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus –Chobeensis race seen well at Mahango GR and Shakawe.

Oryx Gazelle Oryx gazelle. Ubiquitous throughout the trip.

Springbok Antidorcas marsupialis. Ubiquitous throughout the trip

Greater Kudu Tragelaphus. Common throughout the trip.

Sable Antelope Hippotragus hippotragus. Several seen at close quarters in Mahango GR.

Reedbuck Redunca redunca. Mahango GR.

Red Lechwe Kobus lechwe. Many seen at Mahango GR and Shakawe.

Sitatunga Tragelaphus spekii. Seen on nocturnal boat rides at Shakawe.

Eland Taurotragus oryx. Several seen at Omaruru.

Duiker Cephalophus harveyi.Night drives at Omaruru.

Steenbuck Raphicerus campestris.Common throughout the trip.

Damara Dik dik Madoqua kirkii. Erongo and Etosha NP.

Common Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus. A few seen along river beds in Omaruru.

Impala Aepyceros melampus. Common at Mahango NP.

Blackfaced Impala Aepyceros melampus (spp) :Many herds seen at Etosha NP.

Red Hartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus. Several seen at Etosha NP.

Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus. Common in Etosha NP.

Springhare Pedetes capensis. Night drives at Shakawe.

Slender Mongoose Herpestes sanguinea. Crossing roads and foraging in Etosha NP.

Banded Mongoose  Mungos mungo. Large group at Namutoni (Etosha NP) and  Mahango GR.

Yellow Mongoose Cynictis penicillata . Common throughout he Namib and Etosha legs of the trip.

 

Scan of the published article in Lanioturdus reporting the Thick-billed Cuckoo sighting