South Africa: The Western Cape
21-29 September 2007

Guide: Josh Engel with Tokihiko Nagano
A Tropical Birding Custom Tour

Text and photos by Josh Engel
All photos taken on this tour

INTRODUCTION

This tour highlighted all the best of birding within a few hours drive of Cape Town. No site visited was more than three hours from the city, yet the birding was sensational. We visited all of the area’s major habitats, meaning we saw many new birds every day and saw a vast majority of the possible Cape and Karoo endemics. The itinerary was slightly shorter than the Cape section of Tropical Birding's Fairest Cape to Kruger tour; thus instead of visiting the Wilderness region and Karoo National Park, we did a bit of forest birding at Grootvaderbosch Nature Reserve and did our Karoo birding in the Tankwa Karoo. Also included in the itinerary was a pelagic trip out of Simonstown, which lived up to its billing as one of the top pelagic birding areas in the world. This is the most endemic-rich area in all of Africa, so we were able to compile a list of 67 endemics and near-endemics seen.

Highlights of the tour included all of the possible bustards, three of which are endemic: Ludwig's (with a very small chick) and Denham's Bustards, and Karoo and Southern Black Korhaans; an amazing pelagic experience with a truly astounding number of birds, plus great looks at Soft-plumaged Petrel, Northern and Southern Giant Petrels, Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross, and thousands of the beautiful Pintado Petrel; great looks at Cinnamon-breasted Warbler and most of the possible Karoo endemics; the rare African Crowned Eagle; great looks at Cape Rockjumper and most of the possible Cape endemics; and of course much more.

Day 1, 21 Sep: Arrival. Boulder's Beach and Strandfontein.

After a midday pickup from the Cape Town airport (and briefly watching the area's House Crows), we headed straight to the Cape Peninsula to get the trip started off on the right foot: with lunch while watching Cape Town's most famous African Penguin colony. They did not disappoint, with adults and older juveniles up to their usual antics, even evoking their old name Jackass Penguin with their braying calls. We also picked up a couple our first common endemics in the form of Cape Bulbul and Karoo Prinia.

The drive to Strandfontein was livened up with a couple of close to shore Southern Right Whales. Strandfontein itself was, as usual, chock full of waterbirds, but we were slowed on the drive in by very cooperative Lesser Swamp-Warbler, Karoo Prinia and Levaillant's Cisticola. Before long we had seen just about the full slate of ducks, including the handsome Maccoa Duck, along with several herons and egrets, Greater Flamingo, and several shorebirds. Cape Francolin and Helmeted Guineafowl entertained us with their antics.

The wonderful bed-and-breakfast where we were to spend our first three nights is situated adjacent to a bird-filled pond, and before checking in we headed out back to see what was around. We were greeted by two roosting Water Thick-Knees, vocal and confiding Little Grebes, and our first colorful African finches, including a spectacular male Pin-tailed Wydah, a colony of Red Bishops and numerous Cape Weavers. We concluded our first satisfying day with a hearty fresh seafood dinner, then returned to the hotel for the night.

Day 2, 22 Sep: Pelagic.

We arose in great anticipation for the day's pelagic trip. These trips are always exciting: you simply never know what you may encounter at sea. We departed for Simonstown, arrived for our safety briefing, boarded the boat and were off. The weather was great--cloudy, calm conditions were to prevail for the entire day. We stopped to look at a couple Southern Right Whales on the way out. As we passed Cape Point, we began seeing our first White-chinned Petrels and Sooty Shearwaters, and not long after our first Shy Albatross. Two Humpback Whales surfaced very close to our boat allowing great views. As we were watching, the boat's guide, Barrie Rose, shouted "Soft-plumaged Petrel!!" and a remarkably obliging individual of this usually elusive species flew past the boat several times at close range, allowing great views and photos to be obtained. Only moments later Barrie was at it again, this time spotting an adult Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross which passed right over the whales and made several passes by the boat.

Elated, we continued southward, the boat's captain having spotted trawlers on the radar. We eventually arrived at the first trawler, and for the next several hours were treated to one of the most amazing bird spectacles on earth. We were extremely fortunate--we were present to watch three different trawlers haul in their nets, each time creating an utter frenzy of fish, birds and fur seals arriving to gorge themselves on the fish who escape the net. We were treated to a show of thousands and thousands of seabirds swirling around our boat non-stop for hours, presenting themselves to the photographers and allowing spectacular looks. Abundant was the beautiful Pintado Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Sooty Shearwater, Shy and Black-browed Albatross, Wilson's Storm-Petrel, and Cape Gannet. Several Indian Yellow-nosed Albatrosses and both Northern and Southern Giant Petrels put in numerous appearances. Migrant seabirds were just arriving, we saw several Arctic Terns and single individuals of Great Shearwater and Sabine's Gull.

All in all it was a magical day at sea. We returned to the hotel excited and exhausted, ate an early dinner and retired to bed.


Large-billed Lark, a common endemic, was first seen along the West Coast.

Day 3, 23 Sep: West Coast.

We spent the entire day today along the west coast, north of Cape Town. This area has a mosaic of farmland, fynbos and wetlands; a day's birding here often nets over 100 species. Today was no exception. We started off with great views of Bokmakierie, Capped Wheatear and Pearl-breasted Swallow. We were shocked to see an adult Parasitic Jaeger pass overhead, streaming towards the coast. Farther on I noticed a couple distant Blue Cranes. We got out of the car and quickly added several new endemics to the list, including a male Southern Black Korhaan, Cape Grassbird and Cape Longclaw. A Jackal Buzzard pair showed nicely as well. Along the same roads we found all three species of South African mousebirds: Speckled, Red-faced and White-backed.

Passing through West Coast National Park, we added two more raptors, the beautiful endemic Black Harrier (one of seven we were to see throughout the trip!) and African Marsh Harrier. Continuing north, we had great looks at our first endemic chat, Sickle-winged, our first endemic lark, Large-billed, and a pair of the endemic Southern Grey Tit. We then stopped at a stakeout for the localised Chestnut-banded Plover which proved cooperative. We continued birding the area's wetlands, finding Lesser Flamingo, Pied Kingfisher, South African Shelduck and Marsh Sandpiper among various more common shorebirds before returning to Cape Town.

Day 4, 24 Sep: Sir Lowery's Pass to Agulhas Plain.

The morning began with us crossing the N2 towards the rocky mountain fynbos of Sir Lowery's Pass, the closest site to Cape Town for one of the most sought-after Cape endemics, Cape Rockjumper. We started out taking a lower trail, finding Nedicky and Long-billed Pipit, but no rockjumper. We then shifted tactics, heading up to higher, rockier areas. Eventually on responded to playback, showing itself briefly at the highest point. I knew we would have to walk up to get good views, so up we went. Not long after arriving near a rocky peak we heard a pair of Cape Rockjumper calling, and tracked them down for spectacular views of a male and female. They were very obliging, sitting on tops of rocks posing for the photographers in the group as well as feeding in the grass around the base of the rocks.

Satisfied with our success, we headed for the beautiful coastal drive towards the Agulhas Plain. We made one quick stop at a coastal town where we had great looks at and were able to photograph several other endemics, including Cape Rock Thrush, the gorgeous Cape endemic Orange-breasted Sunbird, Southern Double-collared Sunbird and a female Cape Sugarbird--all without moving from the same spot!

After a nice farm stall lunch, we arrived in the beautiful hilly wheat fields of the Agulhas Plain. We were soon noticing an abundance of Blue Crane, and shortly thereafter were scrambling out of the car for our first pair of Denham's Bustard, quickly followed by great looks at Southern Black Korhaan and our first pair of the endemic Karoo Korhaan. We arrived in the late afternoon to Potberg to try for Cape Vulture at their last breeding colony in the Western Cape. The wait was livened up by a constant stream of new birds, all of which provided great views: Southern Boubou, Cape Batis, Bar-throated Apalis, Cardinal Woodpecker, African Paradise Flycatcher and Sombre Greenbul. We were also treated to the occasional Cape Vulture gliding effortlessly overhead on its way to its roost.

This is the female of the wonderful pair of rockjumpers we watched at a site just east of Cape Town.

Day 5, 25 Sep: Agulhas Plain to Grootvaderbosch.

After a later breakfast we headed for De Hoop Nature Reserve, stopping along the way for stellar looks at the recently split endemic Agulhas Long-billed Lark. Upon reaching the reserve quickly found several interesting mammals, including Bontebok and Cape Mountain Zebra. We then began searching the milkwood thickets for two of the most elusive Cape endemics, Southern Tchagra and Knysna Woodpecker. As we walked through the thickets, one participant got a clear view of a tchagra, but it would not respond to tape and was not see again. We decided to take a break and check out the lagoon, which was full of waterbirds, including our first Red-billed Teal and Great Crested Grebe. While checking out the lagoon, I decided to put on the tchagra tape, and moments later one performed a flight display right in front of us! It was great to see Southern Tchagra this way, but unfortunately despite hearing a Knysna Woodpecker, it proved elusive and remained out of sight.

We bid the Agulhas area goodbye and set off for our next destination, Grootvaderbosch Nature Reserve. We arrived at our night's lodging, a guesthouse minutes from the reserve entrance in the mid-afternoon. Minutes after getting out of the car I shouted "Protea Seedeater!" Everyone came running and we all had stunning looks at this normally difficult Cape endemic. It would in fact prove to be common around the guest house gardens. It got even better from there. As we were enjoying the seedeater, a Forest Canary popped into the same tree, followed seconds later by a Swee Waxbill! Not bad for the first five minutes...

We followed these superb sightings with a nice rest at the lovely guest house, before setting off for a brief visit to the forest edge. The birds were similar to those at the guest house, and we had very nice looks at Greater Double-collared and Amethyst Sunbirds and Olive Thrush before returning for dinner. After dinner we made a brief owl and nightjar foray, but were unsuccessful except for hearing a couple distant Fiery-necked Nightjar.

Day 6, 26 Sep: Grootvaderbosch to Tankwa Karoo.

We started the morning birding around the gardens of the guest house, where again Protea Canary, Swee Waxbill and Forest Canary showed well. A calling Red-chested Cuckoo, recently arrived from its non-breeding grounds further north in Africa, was lured in and perched high in a eucalypt for great scope views. An African Goshawk made a pass overhead and we were entertained by the locally nesting Pearl-breasted and Greater Striped Swallows.

After breakfast we headed to the reserve and into the forest. It was unfortunately quiet, but we did come across Africa Dusky Flycatcher, large groups of Cape White-Eye and Cape Batis. A pair of Blue-mantled Crested Flycatchers showed nicely with a mixed flock. With the sunny weather brought the raptors out, and a Booted Eagle soared overhead while an African Goshawk showed off its display flight for us. The highlight, however, was just as we came out of the forest a large raptor was spotted flying swiftly down the valley. An African Crowned Eagle! It disappeared rather quickly, but not before everyone had seen it.

We returned to the guest house, packed out bags, and headed north through the Little Karoo, eventually crossing the mountains into the aridity of the Tankwa Karoo. Entering such a different habitat meant that new birds came quickly. A Pale Chanting Goshawk sat on a pylon, then dropped into the bushes below emerging seconds later with a lizard in its talons. A Karoo Chat sat on a roadside post. A stop in a rocky area yielded the always difficult Cinnamon-breasted Warbler, usually among the most elusive Karoo endemics. The winter had been particularly wet, so the wildflower show was spectacular. A normally dry streambed had a few remaining pools of water; Namaqua Sandgrouse and the nomadic Black-headed Canary were both taking advantage of this water source among the numerous White-throated Canary and Cape Sparrow. Eventually we made it to the beautifully situated lodge (stopping for a Mountain Wheatear en route!) where we were to spend the next two nights.


Black-headed Canary (left) was unusually common this trip in the Tankwa Karoo.

Day 7, 27 Sep: Tankwa Karoo.

We left early, heading over the Cedarberg Mountains and into the Karoo. As we passed over the mountains we stopped when we heard a Cape Clapper Lark displaying. It responded nicely to tape, even landing in the road! We also saw our first of the handsome Rufous-eared Warbler at this stop. Arriving at the area's famous picnic site, we were soon finding ourselves looking at several new species at once--Pririt Batis, Dusky Sunbird, and Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler. A bit of work revealed stunning looks at Fairy Flycatcher, an Acacia Pied Barbet put in an appearance, while the nearby pond held its usual Three-banded Plover. We left the rocky scrub and acacia thickets of the picnic site and headed into the semi-desert of the Karoo. We stopped at another streambed with a few pools of water remaining from the recent rains. Dozens of Lark-like Buntings were drinking; Karoo Lark sang from a bush nearby; migrant European Bee-eaters snagged insects from the power lines.

Continuing on with an eye to the sky, several light and dark form Booted Eagles were spotted, as was a distant Martial Eagle and more Pale Chanting Goshawks. A search of roadside fences for Trac-trac Chat eventually yielded results with a very cooperative individual perching up for great scope looks. We then set off to search for another tricky Karoo endemic--Karoo Eremomela. A few strategic stops later a small party responded so strongly to the tape that they actually hopped around on the road in front of us!

Returning towards the lodge we still needed Layard's Tit-Babbler, which was proving difficult this morning. But after a few stops in its favored rocky habitat we found a very obliging individual that even sat up for photographs.

Day 8, 28 Sep: Tankwa Karoo to Cape Town.

Our last day of birding started around the lodge. A walk in the scrub behind the lodge yielded several displaying Cape Clapper Larks as well as nice looks at a singing Long-billed Pipit. After breakfast and packing up the van, we took a circuitous route over a mountain pass and down the west coast back to Cape Town. We stopped at several marshes before hitting the mountains, which provided our only Black Stork and Whiskered Tern of the trip, as well as an unusual inland Whimbrel.

We stopped at several strategic points in the mountains. The first stop revealed our first male Cape Sugarbird, a spectacular and unusual Cape endemic. We then stopped on the pass, searching hard for Cape Siskin. As I was playing the tape, several small finches came and landed in front of us. However, instead of siskins they were Protea Seedeaters! Although it was nice to see this uncommon endemic again, we were still hunting hard for siskins. While watching the seedeaters I heard the call note of siskins, and watched as it landed on top of a pine tree in front of us. I shouted "Cape Siskin!" and everyone got on it for a couple of seconds before it took off, never to be seen again. A Verreaux's Eagle was also seen sitting on a distant rock pile, and Jackal Buzzard and Booted Eagles were soaring on thermals in the area.

We made another stop closer to Cape Town to look for the Cape endemic nominate subspecies of Cloud Cisticola, which showed awesomely, sitting on top of a small bush meters in front of us, surrounded by a spectacular display of wildflowers. Another stop in the renosterveld close to Cape Town did not yield the hoped for Cape Penduline-Tit, but we did find a surprise Diderick Cuckoo, which we watched fly in from a great distance, only to land directly in front of us and start singing! It was a great way to end the trip.

Day 9, 29 Sep: Departure.

The trip ended this morning the same way it began, watching House Crows at the Cape Town airport! We said our goodbyes, and the participants were off on their way home.

TRIP LIST
Taxonomy follows Roberts Birds of Southern Africa, better known as Roberts VII. Total species seen: 224, including 67 Southern African endemics and near-endemics. Additional species heard: 3. Southern African endemics are in bold, near-endemics are in italics.