Madagascar: Birding the Eighth Continent

Due to frequent changes of flight schedules in Madagascar this itinerary may need to be modified.

​Day 1: Antananarivo
After arrival in Antananarivo (often known simply as “Tana”), the island’s capital, you will be transferred to a city hotel for the night. As soon as we land in this city, it’s obvious that we are in a very different part of the world. Quaint two-story red brick houses rise from a landscape of endless rice fields. Despite being in the mountains, Tana almost feels like an island floating in a sea of rice!

Day 2: Antananarivo to Ifaty
A morning flight takes us to Tulear in the southwest of the island. After landing, we transfer to Ifaty, surrounded by the strange semi-desert Spiny Forest (Af2J), Madagascar’s most striking and unique natural landscape. Here, the spiny-tentacled octopus trees, cactus-like euphorbias, and towering baobabs combine to create an eerie scene. Our first birds should include Olive Bee-eater, Madagascar Lark, and Madagascar Cisticola. En route we encounter several marshes and wetlands, where we should find many waterbirds, ranging from shorebirds like Madagascar Plover and Black-winged Stilt, to marsh denizens like the shy Baillon’s Crake or scarce Greater Painted-Snipe. Two nights will be spent in Ifaty.

Day 3: Ifaty
This morning we seek out an exciting selection of semi-desert endemics such as Running Coua, Thamnornis, Archbold’s Newtonia, and the recently split Olive-capped Coua. The hulking Sickle-billed Vangas give themselves away by their odd wails that sound more like a human baby than a bird! There are two very rare endemics here: the cryptic Subdesert Mesite and elegant Long tailed Ground-Roller, an elusive bird resembling a colorful roadrunner. We sometimes find these birds by following their tracks in the red sand! A sunset walk will give us the opportunity to see a whole new cast of non-avian specialties here, such as Gray and Gray-brown Mouse Lemurs, Petter’s Sportive Lemur, Madagascar Ground Gecko and the outstanding Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec, a member of an endemic mammal family with an uncanny resemblance to hedgehogs despite little relation.

Day 4: Ifaty to Tulear
After another morning birding around Ifaty we head to Tulear for a two-night stay. We may stop for more wetland birding along the way. In the afternoon, we head for the strange coral-rag scrub habitat around the plateau of La Table to search for scrub specialist Verreaux’s Coua, Lafresnaye’s Vanga and Red-shouldered Vanga, a species only discovered in the 1990’s.

Day 5: Tulear Area
Today, we board a boat to visit Nosy Ve, a small, enchanting offshore islet, whose star attraction is a colony of Red-tailed Tropicbirds, but also often hosts Crab Plovers. If time allows, we will have the chance to enter the water for some snorkeling, so be sure to pack a swimsuit if you’re keen. The local reefs are home to plenty of dazzling fish, like butterflyfish, wrasse, Moorish Idol, and the strange Pacific Trumpetfish. On the way back to Tulear we stop at Anakao to search for the very local but common Littoral Rock-Thrush.

Day 6: Zombitse and Isalo
We will wake up very early and drive about 3 hours inland to Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, where we spend a few hours birding. This park is a forest haven in the dry and mainly de-forested southwest. Our main target is one of the world’s most range-restricted birds: Appert’s Tetraka, that is only found in this forest. Other residents in this dry Malagasy Deciduous Forest (Af5A) include Giant Coua, Cuckoo-Roller, and Rufous Vanga. We often get lucky with day-roosting Zombitse Sportive Lemurs, Madagascar (Torotoroka) Scops-Owls, and sometimes even White-browed Owl. Our time in the forest may also produce some memorable encounters with the local Verreaux’s Sifaka troops. By mid-day, we arrive at Isalo, whose sandstone massifs and lush riparian forests rank among the most striking of Malagasy landscapes. When the day begins to cool, we search for the “Benson’s” form of Forest Rock-Thrush that frequents the hotel grounds. The scarce Madagascar Partridge is sometimes present, depending on the condition of the local grasslands. After dinner, we may also search for White-browed or Madagascar Scops-Owls if we failed to find them on day roosts earlier in the day. A single night will be spent in Isalo.

Day 7: Isalo to Ranomafana
Today is a long driving day but is not without rewards. Along the drive we will make a quick but memorable stop at Anja Community Reserve to see Madagascar’s most famous animal, the iconic Ring-tailed Lemur. These habituated yet wild lemurs provide photographers and wildlife watchers an incomparable experience, often including a few mothers and their young at close range. We will then complete our drive through the grasslands of the central plateau which are all that separates us from the beckoning eastern Indian Ocean Montane Rainforests (Af4K), which we reach this evening at Ranomafana, where we will spend four nights.

Days 8–10: Ranomafana
This is Madagascar’s premier mid-altitude rainforest reserve. We’ll search for a variety of endemics like Brown Mesite, Henst’s Goshawk, Pollen’s Vanga, and Ward’s Vanga. Higher up we bird Vohiparara, where we look for localized specialty birds including Madagascan Yellowbrow, Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, Wedge-tailed Jery, and Common Sunbird-Asity. The ridge is also home to the well-named Cryptic Warbler which remained undiscovered until the 1990s! Wetlands in the area give us a chance of locating Meller’s Duck, Madagascar Snipe, and Gray Emutail. Throughout our time here we will search for the local lemurs. Twelve species of Madagascar’s weird and enchanting primates are found at Ranomafana, and one night we’ll have the unforgettable experience of Rufous Mouse Lemurs coming to within inches of our faces. Our daytime hikes may produce sightings of Milne-Edwards’ Sifaka, Red-fronted Brown Lemur, or Golden Bamboo Lemur.

Day 11: Ranomafana to Antsirabe
After a final morning at Ranomafana, we drive to Antsirabe for the night. This highland town is in Madagascar’s agricultural heartland, and retains a strong colonial feel from the days of French rule. We usually enjoy an excellent dinner here due to the bounty of fresh, high-quality local produce. Post morning birding, the drive will take up the entirety of the day, giving everyone a chance to rest and enjoy the enchanting rural landscapes passing by.

Day 12: Antsirabe to Andasibe-Mantadia NP
We continue to Andasibe-Mantadia NP, crossing the Horombe Plateau, where roadside markets display a variety of handicrafts, fruit, and meat. We sometimes see Madagascar Pratincole en route along the Mangoro River. Like the previous day, the drive will take up most of the day, giving everyone a chance to rest and begin the next day with “full batteries”. Five nights will be spent in Andasibe, the gateway to the nearby wonders of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, one of Madagascar’s premier birding destinations.

Days 13–16: Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
This protected area, with its two distinct parcels, offers the best chance to see some of the country’s finest rainforest birds. Mantadia is the best ground-roller reserve in Madagascar, and we might see Pitta-like, Rufous-headed, Short-legged, and Scaly Ground-Rollers here, especially if we missed any of these species at Ranomafana. We’ll also search for easier quarry such as Madagascar Blue-Pigeon, Forest Fody, Madagascar Pygmy-Kingfisher, and Madagascar Starling. We will keep our ears and eyes open for the secretive Madagascar Flufftail and Madagascar Rail. Flufftails are notoriously secretive, but the chances of getting a good view of the Madagascar Flufftail are higher than any of the African mainland species, making this a key target for family listers. In the forested hills, we will try to locate Red-breasted, Red-fronted, and Blue Couas, the glowing Velvet Asity, and the bizarre tree-creeping Nuthatch Vanga. The experience of birding in Perinet would not be complete without being serenaded by the planet’s largest lemur, the Indri. Their spine-chilling hoots and wails will stay with you forever. Other diurnal lemur gems include the subtle gold-and-silver Diademed Sifaka, the adorable Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemur and the entertaining Common Brown Lemur. Night walks should reveal other mammals including Eastern Woolly, Crossley’s Dwarf, and diminutive Goodman’s Mouse Lemurs. The reserve’s herpetofauna is also impressive, with brightly patterned and bizarre frogs, geckos, and chameleons, including the giant Parson’s Chameleon and Mossy leaf-tailed Gecko.

Day 17: Andasibe to Tana
After a final morning of birding mopping up any final targets we still need, or just enjoying the miraculous wildlife of Madagascar, we return to Antananarivo where we spend the night.

Day 18: Departure from Antananarivo
The tour ends this morning with transfers to the airport.

Western Endemics Pre-tour Extension

Day 1: Antananarivo to Ampijoroa
Today we will either fly or drive towards Mahajanga on the northwest coast of Madagascar. In the case that we drive, we will fly on our return to Tana, or vice-versa. The drive can take upwards of 10 hours, but en route we will scan roadside water bodies for African Openbill, Purple, Striated, Common Squacco, and Madagascar Pond Herons, and flocks of Black Egret, which we will watch as they perform their bizarre “umbrella-feeding” routine. After arriving in this sleepy town, we will drive to Ampijoroa, a forest station situated in the extensive deciduous forests of Ankarafantsika National Park. On arrival at the forestry station, we should encounter numerous “campsite residents” such as Broad-billed Roller, screeching Lesser Vasa Parrots, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Magpie Robin, Sakalava Weaver, Madagascar Hoopoe, Madagascar Paradise-Flycatcher, Madagascar Green Pigeon, and Madagascar Turtle Dove. If we arrive early enough, we will spend the afternoon birding along the edge of the adjacent Lac Ravelobe, where we hope to find the threatened Madagascar Fish-Eagle, a pair of which is resident here. White-throated Rails favor the waterside vegetation, and we may find noisy groups of Sickle-billed and Madagascar Blue Vangas moving along the forest fringe. For the first two nights of the extension, we will stay near Ankarafantsika or in Mahajanga.

Day 2: Ampijoroa
We have a full day to explore the network of trails through the dry Malagasy Deciduous Forest (Af5A) around Ampijoroa, in search of the many birds restricted to this biome. Foremost amongst these are the secretive White-breasted Mesite and the jewel-like Schlegel’s Asity, which gives one the impression of a miniature bird-of-paradise. We will also work on finding the highly localized Van Dam’s Vanga and both Red-capped and Coquerel’s Couas. Other birds we hope to see while searching for these specialties include Madagascar Crested Ibis, Madagascar Buttonquail, Frances’s and Madagascar Sparrowhawks, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, and Hook-billed, Rufous, White-headed, Chabert’s, and Red-tailed Vangas. No less than eight species of lemur occur in the near vicinity of the camp and we will search for the comical Coquerel’s Sifaka and Common Brown Lemur during the day, and the rare Mongoose Lemur, Western Woolly Lemur (or Avahi), Milne-Edward’s Sportive, Western Fat-tailed Dwarf, and Gray Mouse lemurs after dark. If we are lucky, we may also find the recently described Golden-brown Mouse Lemur, one of the world’s smallest primates. Reptiles are plentiful along the trails and we hope to see the impressive Madagascar Ground Boa, as well as several smaller species of snake (all harmless – amazingly, there are no venomous snakes in Madagascar), Oustalet’s Chameleon (the world’s largest species), and the aptly named Rhinoceros Chameleon, with its enlarged nasal protuberance.

Day 3: Ampijoroa to Mahajanga
After some final birding around Ampijoroa, we travel to Mahajanga for a two-night stay in a comfortable hotel.

Day 4: Betsiboka Estuary
Today we will embark on a great boat trip up the Betsiboka River Delta, south of town, in search of Madagascar Sacred Ibis and, if we are lucky, the elusive Bernier’s Teal. Later in the day we return to Mahajanga, but if the tides and currents permit, we may first stop off at Katsepy and search for the superb Crowned Sifaka, a very seldom-seen lemur.

Day 5: Mahajanga to Antananarivo
Today, we return to “Tana”. We will be either driving or flying, depending on what our mode of transportation was on our initial journey from Tana to Mahajanga. This is due to low frequencies in available flights between the two cities. This is the arrival day for the main tour.

Helmet Vanga Post-tour Extension

This extension uses charter flights to access the remote Masoala Peninsula. In our view, this is the only reasonable option given the notorious unreliability of scheduled flights to this destination. When comparing our price with that of our competitors, check whether they are using charter flights, or not. Putting your Helmet Vanga experience in the hands of Air Madagascar is a risk we are not prepared to take!

Due to the size of the planes used for these charter flights, there are very strict weight and size restrictions for passengers issued by the local airline; (e.g. waist measurements below 55 inches/140cm are required to take this flight; and persons with an overall body weight exceeding 200 pounds/90 Kilograms may be charged an additional fee by the airline in Madagascar).

Day 1: Tana to Maroansetra to Masoala Peninsula
From Antananarivo we take a charter flight north to the town of Maroantsetra, where shortly after arrival (weather permitting) we transfer across the Bay of Antongil by boat (around 3 hours), to the stunning Masoala Peninsula, where we will have the next two days (three nights) to explore the pristine Indian Ocean Lowland Rainforest (Af4J) that blankets the peninsula.

Days 2–3: Masoala Peninsula
Masoala is endowed with Madagascar’s largest tract of protected rainforest. It is a haven for many bird species and a hideout to a select few that are too bizarre to ignore. Chief among these is the Helmet Vanga, an enormous vanga with a bulbous blue bill. Some years we are even lucky enough to see a nest of this marvelous bird. Some of the more common specialties include loquacious Red-breasted Coua, and handsome Scaly and Short-legged Ground-Rollers. However, our ramblings will set off with higher hopes, as we also stand a good chance of finding the elusive Bernier’s Vanga, which prefers pandanus palm swamps. Just like most locations we visit in Madagascar, Masoala is home to a whole new cast of exciting lemur species. As we search for our avian targets we will look out for the stunning and range-restricted Red Ruffed Lemur and the sharp-looking White-fronted Brown Lemur. Night walks may present us with nocturnal lemurs like Moore’s Woolly, Scott’s Sportive, and an undescribed species of Mouse Lemur.

Day 4: Masoala to Maroansentra to Tana
After a final delicious breakfast on the seaside terrace, we sail back to Maroansetra, and catch our charter flight back to Tana, where the tour ends.

SPECIAL NOTES ABOUT MADAGASCAR TOURS: It is possible that the final itinerary for this tour will be somewhat different from the one given above. Flight schedules in Madagascar are complicated and ever-changing. Most flights operate only on certain days of the week, and the itinerary above is based on those ever-changing schedules. We will monitor the situation and adapt our itinerary as necessary. Flights can even change on a moment’s notice based on weather conditions (or the whims of the airline!), so last-minute modifications are also a distinct possibility. Madagascar is an underdeveloped country. While we endeavor to use the best providers possible, sub-par service (e.g. uncomfortable or poorly maintained vehicles, simple hotels, cancelled or redirected flights) can sometimes cause inconveniences to travelers. Every tour company running trips here must deal with this, and we feel it is best to inform you beforehand, as it can be quite disconcerting considering the costs involved in visiting this country.

Trip Considerations

PACE: Moderate. The sun comes up just after 5am, and early morning is the prime birding time, making for many early mornings. On the other hand, the sun sets about 6pm, meaning that days are not extremely long. There will be some down time at mid-day on some days of the tour, except for days with all-day drives. In the very hot northwest and southwest, we often have many hours of downtime due to high heat and lack of bird activity in the middle of the day. There are some long drives on the main tour (8–10 hours) on this tour, particularly on days 7, 11, and 12. On the Western Endemics Extension, there might be an all-day drive on Day 1 or Day 5, if we are unable to get flights for these journeys. Usually, we manage to get a flight for one of these days at least though. On the Helmet Vanga Extension, there is a 3-hour boat ride each way, to get to and from the Masoala Peninsula. Most of the tour is spent on national roads that have both good stretches, and pothole-riddled stretches, and are often winding. Some sites are accessed via short drives (two hours maximum) on sandy or muddy tracks. There will be some field meals on this tour to make the most of our birding in some areas.

PHYSICAL DIFFICULTY: Moderate. The eastern rainforest sites (including the Masoala Peninsula Extension) require long sessions in the forest, away from the vehicle. On one or two days, these sessions may run from early morning until the late afternoon, and we will bring a packed lunch into the forest, which you will need to bring in a backpack. Although we try to find as many species as possible from the trails, bushwhacking is often necessary to seek out special birds and lemurs, but these diversions from the trail can be skipped by those who are physically unable to make them. The most difficult site is Ranomafana, where there is lots of up-and-down elevation change. The rainforest trails don’t generally have deep mud but can be slippery on the surface after recent rain. Some trails are broad and flat while others are narrow and uneven, with rocks and roots underfoot. Walking sticks are strongly recommended. The terrain in the western sites is flat, but often sandy, which can be fatiguing, especially after the early morning coolness has abated. You can expect to walk around 4 miles (6.4 km) per day on average. There are no especially high altitudes on this tour. The capital, “Tana” is situated at 1300 m (4000 ft).

CLIMATE: The tour is timed for the start of the rainy season, which is generally the best time of year for birds and mammals. Conditions are usually dry at this time, though some rain is expected, especially in the eastern rainforest sites, so good raingear is essential. The eastern rainforest sites have moderate temperatures (mostly 70°–80°F, 21°–27°C), though they are humid, with rain possible. The climate at Ifaty and all the sites on the western endemics extension are very hot and humid (up to 95°F, 35°C) and dry. Masoala is warm (mostly 75°–80°F, 24°–29°C), and very humid.

ACCOMMODATION: Very good throughout most of the main tour. Two nights (Days 1 and 2) on the Western Endemics Extensions will be spent in a basic but comfortable lodge, with ensuite bathrooms but no hot water. On the Helmet Vanga Extension the lodge is more rustic than those on the main tour with electricity provided by generator and solar power, which may be restricted to certain periods, but all the rooms have en-suite bathrooms.

PHOTOGRAPHY: This is a birding tour, but Madagascar offers excellent chances for nature photography. Many Malagasy creatures are approachable and photogenic. Many sightings, of lemurs in particular, are extended, allowing abundant chances for photography. Birds are generally quite approachable, though rainforest bird photography can be difficult here as anywhere in the world. The Western Endemics Extension is particularly excellent for bird photography. Reptiles and amphibians offer wonderful chances for macro photography. Serious nature photographers, however, may wish to check out our Madagascar Photo Tour.

WHEN TO GO: We run the set-departure tour in October or November, at the beginning of the warm and rainy season, when many birds begin breeding, hibernating mammals have started to emerge, and frogs and reptiles become conspicuous. Although it is somewhat less diverse, the austral winter is also a good time to visit Madagascar, as the parks are less crowded and the weather is very comfortable. We can run custom tours in that season if desired, and custom tours can be tweaked to make the most of any season.

Other Information

TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS: A valid passport is required; the passport must be valid for at least six months past your intended stay and have THREE BLANK PAGES. Proof of onward travel (a return ticket) may also be requested. A visa is required. Currently, a  30-day tourist visas can be obtained upon arrival for citizens of the US, Canada, UK, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and most European countries. There is a fee for this, payable in cash on arrival.  This is currently 35 Euros/ $41 US Dollars (noter that this may change at short notice). A visa can also be obtained beforehand through a Malagasy embassy or consulate. Advance visas are currently only required of a few nationalities, mostly in Asia, Africa, and the Middle East. Travel requirements are subject to change, and it is a good idea to double-check your entry requirements at least six weeks before you travel; contact the nearest embassy or consulate or ask our office staff for help. PLEASE NOTE: A Yellow Fever vaccination certificate is generally not required for entry into Madagascar, if you are coming from an area without this. However, if you are transiting through some areas like Nairobi (Kenya) or Addis Ababa (Ethiopia), and you have had a long transit time or have left the airport in those places, you may need to present a Yellow Fever certificate on arrival in Madagascar.

WHAT’S INCLUDED?: Tips to local guides, drivers, and lodge staff; accommodation from the night of day 1 to the night of day 17 if taking only the main tour; from the night of Day 1 to Day 4 of the Western Endemics Extension if also taking that (the night of Day 5 is the first night of the main tour); from the night of Day 1 to the night of Day 3 of the Helmet Vanga Extension if also taking that; meals from dinner on Day 1 to breakfast on Day 18 (unless you leave before breakfast starts) if only taking the main tour; meals from breakfast on Day 1 to lunch on Day 5 of the Western Endemics Extension if also taking that; meals from on lunch on Day 1 (breakfast is covered under the main tour on this day) to breakfast on Day 4 of the Helmet Vanga Extension; safe drinking water throughout;Tana to Ifaty domestic flight on the main tour; round ticket Tana-Mahajanga-Tana flight on Western Endemics Extension if taking that too (if a flight is available, otherwise this may be done by road at one end of the extension); return charter flight Tana-Maroansetra-Tana if taking the Helmet Vanga Extension; one arrival and one departure airport transfer per person (transfers may be shared with other participants of the same tour if they arrive at the same time); ground transport in a suitable vehicle with a local driver for the group to all sites in the itinerary from Day 2 to Day 17 of the main tour , and from Day 1 to Day 5 of the Western Endemics Extension if taking that, and from Day 1 to Day 4 of the Helmet Vanga Extension if taking that; entrance fees and local guide fees for all the birding sites mentioned in the itinerary.

WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED?: Optional tips to the Tropical Birding tour leader; tips for luggage porters (if used); international flights; excess baggage fees on all domestic flights (see notes above for charter flight, if taking Helmet Vanga Extension); snacks; additional drinks apart from those included; alcoholic beverages; travel insurance; excursions not included in the tour itinerary; extras in hotels such as laundry service, minibar, room service, telephone calls, and personal items; medical fees; other items or services not specifically mentioned as being included; expenses that could arise due to the delay, change, or extension of the trip due to circumstances beyond Tropical Birding’s control (weather, flight delays/cancellations, lost luggage, road closures, etc.).