Namibia and Botswana: Birding the Living Desert

Day 1: Arrival in Windhoek
Touching down in Namibia’s capital, we step into a land of big skies and rugged beauty. Time permitting, we’ll explore some local hotspots this afternoon. One is Avis Dam, where we’ll have the opportunity to familiarize ourselves with many of the common birds we’ll see throughout the tour. Among Maccoa Duck, Kittlitz’s Plover, Crimson-breasted Gonolek, Short-toed Rock-Thrush, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, and Mountain Chat, Rockrunner is the real prize, the near-endemic favoring the bluffs above the basin. We might also venture to the Gammams wastewater treatment plant, where we can expect Red-knobbed Coot, African Darter, and Reed Cormorant; African Fish-Eagle, Squacco Heron, and African Swamphen are also possible.

​Day 2: Windhoek to Spreetshoogte Pass
As we need to drive only three hours south on this first full day, there should be time to visit (or revisit) Avis Dam and/or the Gammams waterworks. As both sites hold many species, return visits often turn up birds that escaped us on a first pass. After a scenic drive over the escarpment, we’ll reach the guest farm where we’ll sleep. Here we’ll soak in incredible scenery as we explore the property for the likes of Red-billed Spurfowl, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Pearl-spotted Owlet, and Karoo Scrub-Robin. If we’re really lucky, we might intersect Orange River Francolin or Nicholson’s Pipit. The bulbous rock formations are stunning, and the stargazers among us will enjoy the crystal clear views that this light-free region permits.

​Day 3: Spreetshoogte Pass to Walvis Bay
The non-stop drive to Walvis is upwards of four hours, but the journey will take us closer to seven or eight by the time we include birding stops. There’s zero civilization along our route — not even a gas station! — so we’ll enjoy a hearty farmhouse breakfast on this usually chilly morning. That meal concluded, we’ll drive a short distance to Spreetshoogte Pass, an elevated overlook offering breath-taking views of the surrounding mountains and the Namib desert. Continuing west and descending the escarpment, we’ll look for Herero Chat, Bokmakierie, Sociable Weaver, White-throated Canary, Chat Flycatcher, and Rüppell’s Bustard. Turning north, toward Walvis, driving through endless Namib Rock Desert (Af2B) plains, we should encounter our first large mammal in the form of Oryx, one of the most striking antelopes on the planet. If we make good time, we’ll search for the endemic Dune Lark in the Namib Sand Desert (AF2D) as we approach Walvis. To finish up the day, we’ll check into our beachfront hotel, where we’ll spend two nights. Seafood lovers will have lots of options at local restaurants.

​Day 4: Walvis Bay and Swakopmund
This morning’s activities will be dictated by the results of yesterday’s Dune Lark search. If we missed that bird, then we’ll backtrack for it; if we bagged it, then we’ll take a relaxed spin around Walvis Bay’s beach shore (Af12E) and mudflats (Af12E) looking for Hartlaub’s Gull, Orange River White-eye, and a variety of shorebirds: Pied Avocet, Chestnut-banded Plover, Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stint. With proper dedication, we should be able to pick-up African Oystercatcher, Great Crested Tern, and Cape and Crowned Cormorants as we sift through thousands of Greater and Lesser Flamingos. If the winds are from the east, we might score a pelagic bonus like White-chinned Petrel or Sooty Shearwater. Who knows? We had African Penguin in the surf one year! We’ll also search some barren gravel plains (Af2B) for Gray’s Lark and Tractrac Chat. This will be our second night in Walvis.

​Day 5: Walvis to Omaruru via Spitzkoppe
Leaving Walvis, we will drive two hours to Spitzkoppe. The big goal here is Namibia’s most elusive endemic, Herero Chat. Weaving around the towering rock formations as we search for that bird, we’ll also keep our eyes peeled for White-tailed Shrike, Layard’s Warbler, Pririt Batis, Dusky Sunbird, and Verreaux’s Eagle. Once we’ve ticked our Spitzkoppe targets, hopefully by mid-morning, we’ll vacate the area and continue two hours to Omaruru. Our lodge here is situated in a remarkable site, tucked into the ancient rocks of the Erongo Mountains and surrounded by stunning copses of flat-topped acacia dominated Kalahari Dry Thorn Savanna (Af6C). Rock Hyrax crawl over every boulder, and Rosy-faced Lovebirds mob the feeder just outside the restaurant. Once the sun drops a bit, we’ll bird the wooded areas along the property and nearby riverbed for Rüppell’s Parrot, Carp’s Tit, Violet Woodhoopoe, Southern Pied Babbler, and a foursome of hornbills: Southern Yellow-billed, Damara Red-billed, Monteiro’s, and African Gray. And the kicker? Freckled Nightjar often buzzes the outdoor tables at the lodge restaurant, so bring your binoculars to dinner.

​Day 6: Omaruru
The Omaruru / Erongo region hosts so many key birds that we’ll want (and need) another full day to track them all down. This morning, we usually make a dedicated effort to locate Hartlaub’s Spurfowl, a near-endemic which vocalizes while standing atop large boulders – a real specialty of Inselbergs and Koppies (Af6G). Other birds we might hope for in the area include Green-winged Pytilia, Pied Barbet, Burnt-necked Eremomela, Black-chested Prinia, Brubru, Golden-breasted Bunting, and Violet-eared Waxbill. It will be very hot in the dry surroundings, but so will the birding (hopefully)!

Day 7: Omaruru mop-up and Etosha National Park
We have another morning in this area to soak up the special birds or catch up on any missed targets before heading north to Etosha. The middle third of our drive to Okaukuejo Camp offers productive birding – Secretarybird, Kori Bustard, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Red-headed Finch, and Fawn-coloured Lark, to name a few possibilities – so we’ll slow down through that section and see what we can find. Arriving at Etosha, we’ll head out for a late-afternoon game drive. Skirting the western edge of the massive salt pan (Af12B) – one of Africa’s largest – as the sun dips west, we’ll hope for Common Ostrich, White-quilled Bustard, Double-banded Courser, and Pink-billed, Spike-heeled, and Stark’s Larks. Roadside Springbok allow close approach; Southern Giraffes, Plains Zebras, Blue Wildebeest, and Oryx meander through the dusty landscape. If we’re lucky, we might encounter the local Lion pride. With those and other mammals in the mix, the end of this day will feel truly African. After returning to camp, we’ll spend a bit of time at the camp water hole. It’s maintained just outside the camp fence and attracts a host of mammals including African Elephant, Black Rhino, and Spotted Hyena. Some guests choose to return to the waterhole after dinner because it’s near the rooms and draws animals through the night.

Day 8: Etosha National Park
We’ll enjoy breakfast and a short bout of in-camp birding for the likes of White-browed Scrub-Robin and Marico Sunbird before taking to the park roads. Heading east, we’ll visit a series of waterholes, hoping for additional mammals as we sift through the resident birds. Red-crested Bustards skulk in roadside grass, Marico Flycatchers flit between low perches, and White-crowned Shrikes scope prey from bush tops. As the temperature rises, raptors take to the air; Tawny Eagles and White-backed and Lappet-faced Vultures spiral skyward on mid-morning thermals. Reaching Halali Camp in time for lunch, we’ll eat and rest through the midday heat. Later in the afternoon, we’ll pile into the vehicle and return to the park roads, our goal to catch-up with whatever birds and mammals we’ve missed to this point. We’ll be out until 6pm, at which point we’ll return to camp and visit the Halali waterhole. Aside from close looks at various mammals, it should afford us the opportunity to enjoy hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse when they arrive for their end-of-day drinks. Those who especially enjoy nightbirds will be happy to hear that African Scops- and Southern White-faced Owls can sometimes be found in camp.

​Day 9: Etosha National Park
As yesterday, we’ll begin with in-camp birding through the copses of Mopane (Af6A) for Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, White-crested Helmetshrike, Violet Woodhoopoe, and Brown-crowned Tchagra. Halali has historically been a good place for Bare-cheeked Babbler and Carp’s Tit, both near-endemic, so we’ll do our best to intersect that pair. Leaving camp, we’ll continue east along the southern edge of the giant Etosha Pan. Beyond birds already mentioned, we’ll be looking for Black-chested Snake-Eagle, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove, African Gray Hornbill, Gray-backed Sparrowlark, and Desert Cisticola. Leopard and Cheetah are tough to locate, but they’re more prevalent in the eastern end of the park; we’ll be on high alert for those as we close the distance to Namutoni camp. This night will be spent either just outside the park or farther down the road, in Tsumeb.

​Day 10: To Kavango
This day will be mostly driving as we head northeast, into the Kavango Region, but we’ll make sure to explore the hotel/lodge grounds for Eurasian Hoopoe, White-bellied Sunbird, Black-backed Puffback, Black-faced Babbler, and Southern Red-billed Hornbill before we initiate the long haul to Rundu. We’ll pick up provisions and likely have lunch in that bustling outpost. Another ninety minutes east and we’ll reach our lodge. Perched on a bluff above the Kavango River and looking north into Angola, the property will be our base of operations for the next two days. Water levels and timing of the drive permitting, this afternoon’s feature activity is a boat ride along the slow flow that fronts our hotel. While a large colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters will be the highlight of that outing, we’re also hoping for Black Crake, African Openbill, Little Bee-eater, and Pied Kingfisher.

Day 11: Kavango
An early start will deliver us to some Gusu broadleaf woodland (Af6H) shortly after sunrise. In that unique habitat, we’ll search for an entirely new complement of birds including Striped Kingfisher, Southern Black Flycatcher, Pale Flycatcher, Arnot’s Chat, Tinkling Cisticola, Sharp-tailed Starling, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Cut-throat, Southern Black Tit, African Penduline-Tit, and Souza’s Shrike (very tough). The birding is notoriously challenging, so it’ll be a successful outing if we score even a handful of the mentioned possibilities. Later in the day, we’ll explore the lodge property. Red-faced Mousebird, Magpie Shrike, Hartlaub’s and Arrow-marked Babblers, and Kurrichane Thrush are likely. Other possibilities include Senegal Coucal, Bradfield’s Hornbill, Lesser Honeyguide, Chinspot Batis, Yellow-breasted Apalis, and White-browed Robin-Chat. The evening soundtrack will be provided by the resident hippos, their grunts cascading up and down the river.

​Day 12: Kavango wrap-up and drive to Botswana
Depending on energy/enthusiasm and how we did yesterday, we may use the early morning hours to further bird the lodge grounds and/or revisit the parkland-like Gusu woodlands. Afterwards, we’ll head towards the Mahango section of Bwabwata National Park. The park road winds between dry thickets, wet meadows, and riverine fringes, so we’ll have cracks at both land and water birds. Some of the more interesting targets include Swainson’s Spurfowl, Crested Francolin, Yellow-billed Stork, Goliath and Black Herons, Spotted Thick-knee, and Meves’s Starling. Elephants are common, but we’ll target local specialties like Cape Buffalo and Roan and Sable Antelopes because they aren’t possible elsewhere on this itinerary. Leaving Mahango, we’ll bid Namibia temporary goodbye and – after what are usually only minimal administrative formalities – cross into Botswana. Our lodge is only 40 minutes beyond the border post, and we may arrive in time to enjoy an afternoon river cruise. The low boats are a fantastic way to explore the gentle flow of the deep and shallow freshwater marshes (Af11A and Af11B) of the Okavango River, and we’ll feel lost in time as we sweep around muddy banks and along reedy edges. Among a host of interesting possibilities – African Skimmer, Malachite and Giant Kingfishers, Luapula and Chirping Cisticolas, Slaty Egret, Rufous-bellied Heron, Wattled Crane – the stealthy White-backed Night-Heron and the enormous Pel’s Fishing Owl will be our primary targets.

​Day 13: Okavango Panhandle, Botswana
A second boat trip on this day should help us intersect with some enticing new goodies. We should also spend some time birding on foot in the Monsoon Forest (Af4C) around the lodge, where we hope to find Mourning Collared-Dove, White-fronted Bee-eater, White-browed Coucal, Black Cuckooshrike, Gabon Boubou, Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Terrestrial Brownbul, Lesser Striped Swallow, and others. And, after dinner, we might be able to secure views of African Wood-Owl to round out the day.

Day 14: Botswana wrap-up and Namibia return
While we will have spent yesterday afternoon on lodge property, there is so much to see that we’ll dedicate this final Botswana morning to ferreting-out whatever species have hitherto escaped us. Holub’s Golden Weaver? Hopefully! African Pied Wagtail? Sure! Violet-backed Starling? If they’ve migrated early enough! The point is that there’s plenty to keep us engaged. Most of the middle part of the day is dedicated to driving, beginning the long journey back to the Namibian capital.

​Day 15: Windhoek return
This day is mostly dedicated to driving, but we are likely to make a birding stop or two as we close the distance to Windhoek. Depending on where we stay, we might also use some of the morning to bird the hotel/campgrounds for species we have not yet encountered.

​Day 16: International departures
Most international flights depart in the afternoon, so there might be time to revisit Avis Dam on this final morning. Regardless, you will have had a complete and unforgettable Namibia experience to this departure point!

Trip Considerations

PACE: Moderate. We’ll want to be out early, around 6 am, and stay out to around 5 or 6 pm, to take advantage of the best times of day for birds and mammals. Where possible, we will use the middle of the day to rest up, or travel between localities. There will be a few days that are full days in the field. There will be only a handful of optional outings after dark to search for owls and nightjars; these are normally done just before dinner and seldom last for more than an hour (typically between 6–7 pm). Namibia is a large country and there are some long drives required, but the roads are very good. The longest drive is about 9 hours on day 15, with drives of 4-6 hours on at least three other days. There will be packed lunches on many days; but sitting with a packed lunch for a siesta under a tree is often a far more relaxing way to do things than spending a long time driving back to camp for lunch, only to head out again later.

PHYSICAL DIFFICULTY: Easy. Almost all the birding is done from easy roads or tracks, or from a safari vehicle. The maximum amount of walking will be around 2 miles (3 kilometers) on a few days.

CLIMATE: Pleasantly warm, though some mornings can be cool, but it is dry and overall, the weather in central Namibia is a delight (usually 55°-82°F, 13°-28°C). Rain is highly unlikely, but not impossible. In the north and in the Okavango it can be very hot, especially in October and November (maximums of up to 105°F, 41°C).

ACCOMMODATION: Good to excellent; all have private bathrooms, and hot water. Electricity is available everywhere and is 24 hours a day in most lodges. Internet is widespread, but not available everywhere. The lodge on the Kavango is a little rustic, but well placed and still some of the best accommodation in the area.

PHOTOGRAPHY: If you are a casual photographer, you will love this trip! Birds are cooperative, and mammals are easy to take pictures of, and visiting many places where birds are common, tame and easily seen, there are plenty of opportunities for the casual photographer to indulge and enjoy shooting. If you are a serious photographer however interested in this part of the world, you may wish to consider our

WHEN TO GO: We often run the set-departure tour in September, when the birds have begun breeding and some of the Palearctic migrants have arrived. Also, it is the end of the dry season, when the mammals are being drawn into the many waterholes that are present in Etosha. This trip can be run as a custom tour at almost any time of year; in the austral winter (May – August) the mammals are excellent, while in austral summer (November – March) it is significantly warmer and the mammals are harder to find, but the birding is excellent. Custom tours can be tweaked to make the most of any season.

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Other Information

TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS: A valid passport is required; the passport must be valid for at least six months past your intended stay. Tourist visas are currently not required for citizens of South Africa, USA, Canada, UK, most of the EU, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. Visas are required for citizens of India, China, and much of the remainder of the world; please check with the nearest embassy or consulate, or ask our office staff for help. Travel requirements are subject to change; it’s a good idea to double check six weeks before you travel.

WHAT’S INCLUDED?: Tips to drivers, local guides, and lodge/restaurant staff; accommodation from the night of day 1 to the night day 15; meals from dinner on day 1 to breakfast on day 16 (if you have a very early flight on the last day, you may miss the included hotel breakfast); reasonable non-alcoholic drinks with meals; safe drinking water between meals; Tropical Birding bird tour leader with scope and audio playback gear from the afternoon of day 1 to the afternoon of day 15; one departure airport transfer per person specifically on the departure day (transfer may be shared with other participants of the same tour if they arrive at the same time); ground transport for the group to all sites in the itinerary from the afternoon of day 1 to the afternoon of day 15 in a suitable vehicle (depending on group size it may be driven by the tour leader); entrance fees to sites mentioned in the itinerary; 2 boat trips – one on the Kavango and one on the Okavango Panhandle; a printed and bound checklist to help you keep track of your sightings (given to you at the start of the tour – only electronic copies can be provided in advance).

WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED?: Optional tips to the tour leader; tips for luggage porters at hotels (if you require their services); flights; snacks; additional drinks apart from those included; alcoholic beverages; travel insurance; excursions not included in the tour itinerary; extras in hotels such as laundry service, minibar, room service, telephone calls, and personal items; medical fees; other items or services not specifically mentioned as being included.